This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
In less than a month, the only major winter festival spotlighting gastronomy in North America will celebrate its silver anniversary with the Montreal metropolis. In the space of 25 years, the gourmet wing of Montreal en Lumière has been at the origin of thousands of activities and the arrival of more than 700 international guests, making this city a capital of good food, and of the Quebec culinary scene, one of the most effervescent in the world. So let’s take advantage of this anniversary edition to look back at the delicious history and the enticing programming of this unique event. At table !
When the CEO of Spectra, Alain Simard, launched the idea of a unifying event that would bring Montrealers out of their cocoon in the heart of winter, many found this idea preposterous. “I never thought people would want to make java in February! And I was very wrong! » admits ex-columnist Jean-Philippe Tastet.
Indeed, the Montréal en Lumière festival was a success from its first held in 2000. And of its three sections offered, it was that of gastronomy that stole the show. “As soon as the program came out, 80% of the tables were full within a few days. It was crazy ! » recalls chef Marc De Canck, co-owner of Restaurant La Chronique, one of the good restaurants that have participated in the 25 editions of the event.
Chef and former ITHQ professor Jean-Paul Grappe, culinary advisor to the event for more than a decade, also remembers this little revolution perfectly. “The first chefs invited here thought we ate like Americans and didn’t have any distinctive products,” he says. But they quickly realized that we were bon vivants, and that Quebec was a land of gastronomy. »
These amazed chefs, some of whom are iconic like Paul Bocuse, Alain Passard, Charlie Trotter and Anne-Sophie Pic, have flocked from all continents to present their know-how and create magical moments in duo with local chefs. Over the years, they have discovered a ton of talent and products. Foie gras and truffles imported from the beginning of the festival have gradually given way to game, fish, shellfish, fine cheeses, wild mushrooms and Quebec spices on the menus. Same thing for local wines and spirits, increasingly valued in restaurants and festival activities.
Over the years, Montréal en Lumière has also been a reflection of its times. The formal tablecloths, cooks’ hats and waiters’ white gloves have disappeared in favor of more friendly atmospheres. Various influences have also passed through it, from French cuisine to Asian, including molecular, bistronomic, Scandinavian, boreal and ethnic. “But beyond the fashions, each chef has his own signature, and I think that overall, we no longer have anything to envy of starred restaurants elsewhere,” indicates Marc De Canck.
An opinion shared by Julie Martel, at the helm of the festival’s programming for almost seven years. “The great Quebec chefs of today are often those who previously worked for the good restaurants of Montréal en Lumière and who dreamed of one day participating in this event. They are talented, creative, proud of our products and bearers of responsible values. They are on a magnificent roll… and the best is yet to come! »
Celebrate big
For his 25e anniversary, Montréal en Lumière did not do things by halves. From February 22 to March 10, foodies will have the choice between dozens of activities, whatever their tastes and budget.
Let us first emphasize, in the chef duos formula, that a constellation of 25 stars will shine in around fifty Bonnes Tables in the metropolis, with the participation of great guest chefs like Emmanuel Pilon (received at the Mastard) and Glenn Viel ( at Maison Boulud). Several of them are also the apostles of responsible cooking and have a Michelin green star.
As for the Gourmet Quarter, a section started in 2019, around twenty free activities will be available between 1er and March 9 in the company of chefs, producers, artisans and players in the gastronomic world. Tastings, demonstrations, conferences and happy hours will be on the program.
Finally, you should definitely not miss the special events on the 25the of Montreal in light. Evenings of 25 courses staged by Nicolas Fonseca, offering of 25 brunches the day after the Nuit blanche, four-handed dinner for the 90th anniversary of Air France at the ITHQ… Everything is in place to make the festival memorable. “I believe that this program represents everything that Montreal has to offer from a gourmet point of view,” confirms Julie Martel. “It’s all magic. But above all it is our culinary, cultural and identity heritage that is expressed at its best. » An unmissable event!
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.