Two lovers (of food) in Lisbon

(Lisbon) In Lisbon, Estrela is a charming mostly residential district where some interesting gourmet addresses have recently been springing up. At the bend of a narrow steep street, the most observant will notice a royal blue window displaying the inscription “Veggies & Wines”.

It is here, in this wine bar prettily named Senhor Uva (“Monsieur Raisin”), that the new Lisbon home of the Quebec couple formed by Stéphanie Audet and Marc Davidson is located.

The first is a chef known for her botanical cuisine. A great traveler, she has worked in Hawaii, Texas and Brazil, developing her creative, gourmet and refined style, which leaves a lot of room for plants. Marc himself has fifteen years of experience in catering as a maitre d’. He began his career at the late Chaud Lapin, where he met his “mentor”, sommelier Jean-Benoît Hinse, and has since developed a passion for wines, particularly natural wines.

The two met in the metropolis, when Marc was working at the Lauréa restaurant. Stéphanie was beginning her term as executive chef of the vegan restaurant Lov, which had just opened its first address in Old Montreal.

How did the lovers find themselves in Lisbon to open a natural wine bar there? Both cherished the idea of ​​going to live and work in Europe and also wanted to slow down the hectic pace of their lives. Then, Marc learned that he could apply for Portuguese citizenship thanks to his mother, who, although of Chinese and Indian descent, was born in the small island of Macau, a former colony of Portugal. He therefore began the process, which turned out to be more difficult than expected. “It took six years! »

A winning duo

Finally, in October 2018, the newly married couple flew to Lisbon. After a month-long honeymoon in Cape Verde, the question quickly arose: “What do we do now?” »

Living in Airbnbs, realizing that life is finally getting expensive in the Portuguese capital and that their meager savings were quickly disappearing, the couple understood that they had to act quickly so that their dream did not go up in smoke.

Very close to the Jardim da Estrela, a charming park where Stéphanie and Marc like to go for walks, a little café was struggling. One day it was put up for sale. But they weren’t the only ones interested. A convincing e-mail later, they managed to get hold of the small premises, in a neighborhood where the supply of restaurants was almost non-existent.

Opened on January 29, 2019, Senhor Uva quickly hit the mark with an offer that stood out in the metropolis, which is nevertheless known for its gourmet effervescence. “At that time, there weren’t many spaces that sold natural wines or slightly different vegetarian food, like there are so many in Montreal, or that put forward a concept inspired by farm-to-table. It was very new”, remarks Stéphanie.

“The experience we’re offering was liked; a neighborhood wine bar, where you can come on a Monday evening in a t-shirt, have a drink and a few small dishes without emptying your wallet. It didn’t really exist here. It’s either the small traditional restaurants or the Michelin star. In short, we created the place where we would like to go! adds Marc, whose wine list includes some 400 references.

The menu, made up of pretty and appetizing little dishes, is very plant-based, but butter and cheese are also included. Stephanie has discovered a world of possibilities in this temperate country and can have more fun than ever with vegetables and fruit, because the harvest season lasts… all year round. “There’s everything here: oranges, lemons, avocados, quinces, nectarines… There are tomatoes until December! »

An evening spent in a crowded Senhor Uva, at the end of September, where we also met some Quebecers, confirmed to us that the chef is really on his X. Her compositions are at the same time very inventive, surprising and absolutely delicious. Nothing agreed here. As for the wine, the selection is sublime and Marc is an outstanding host. No wonder the place is almost always full.

Small project will become big

The challenges were many, with a small kitchen that only had one induction hob. “We had the idea of ​​creating a wine bar with small, simple dishes and snacks. But people ate, and came back to eat! says Stéphanie, who had to be resourceful to meet the demand.

Let’s also add the challenge of learning Portuguese, adapting to a new culture and finding staff when they were unknown in the industry (not to mention a pandemic through all that!). It is by offering a human work environment, with a four-day-a-week schedule and holidays – a rarity in Lisbon – that the restaurateurs have managed to build a solid team.

The word got around and the company grew, so much so that since November 2021, Senhor Uva #2 has occupied the premises opposite, on the other side of the street. Initially, the couple wanted to create a new concept, but quickly realized they were complicating their lives with two menus, two teams, two wine lists, and merged everything. Yes, the employees bring the dishes that come out of the kitchen across the street! “It never rains, so that’s okay!” “Laughs Stephanie.

The latest addition: Caverna das uvas, a wine cellar where customers can taste and purchase a large selection of natural wines. The couple teamed up with a friend to start a private import agency. They can sell their finds to other restaurants.

Although they sometimes miss Quebec and their family, Lisbon has taken their hearts. “I want to stay here forever “says Stephanie. “It’s a fantastic city, a marvelous country from which you have access to all of Europe. It’s a different life and rhythm, which correspond to what we want,” concludes Marc. Viva Lisboa !

Sehnor Uva is open seven nights a week. Reservations strongly recommended.