Review | Urumqi Ozgu: discovering Uyghur cuisine

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: the hearty Uyghur cuisine of Urumqi Ozgu uyghur cuisine.

Why talk about it?

You don’t find Uyghur specialties on every street corner! But with the community now numbering a few hundred families, there are four good restaurants in Montreal and its suburbs serving the cuisine of this Muslim and Turkish-speaking minority from Xinjiang province in northwestern China. Two of them are in the borough of LaSalle, including the one that interests us this week. To tell the truth, we chose it at random. A blogger friend who is well versed in hidden treasures had appreciated Miran, in the borough of Saint-Laurent. So we wanted to test another, with success. The Taklamakan (borough of LaSalle) and the Dolan (Brossard) will follow one day.

Who are they ?

The Tursun brothers and Elyas Ablikim first passed through Mississauga, west of Toronto, before settling in Montreal. They were already in Canada when China started its genocide and were able to obtain refugee status. In China, Tursun owned two restaurants in the Uyghur capital of Urumqi and another in Ghulja. Elyas learned traditional cuisine, which is passed down from chef to chef there. On our second visit, with a photographer, one of Tursun’s daughters, Sabiha, was helping with the translation. She is studying law at McGill University. His sister Dilraba also works at the restaurant, as well as his aunt Miyassar and his cousin Dilziba.

Our experience

It’s a Saturday night in November and the dining room is empty. But the somewhat messy behind-the-scenes of the restaurant – nothing shocking, we can reassure you – suggest that the afternoon was very busy. Our kind and helpful waitress, Dilziba, confirms that it often happens during the day here, for a more festive atmosphere.

That said, we’re not here to party — and even less to drink, since there’s nothing like a beer or a bottle of wine here — but to discover. My lover, having lived in China for several months, has heartwarming memories of Uyghur noodles in Shanghai. Charles, the blogger friend who had recommended the Miran restaurant, is well placed to give his impressions. He accompanies us.

For the choice of dishes, we follow the recommendations of the house; the “big plate chicken” – as it is called in most Uyghur restaurants in the metropolis – is a must. Indeed, the huge plate — and we ordered the smaller of the two sizes! — is brimming with chunky, hand-pulled flat noodles, melting potato rings and poultry. Watch out for small bones. The flavors that emerge from this beautiful steaming dish are absolutely intoxicating: fresh ginger, star anise, Sichuan pepper, garlic. The ingredients are first sautéed, then the cooking ends in the pressure cooker for optimum tenderness.

Another format of pulled wheat noodles, leghmen, sits under a generous helping of ground lamb and jalapeno sauce. It looks a bit like a bolognese (or rather its Quebec version: spag sauce!), but with a taste of cumin and a good score on the spicy Scoville scale.

To sweeten these two main courses, the eggs with leeks (Chinese spring onion and not the large leeks we are used to) are extremely effective. And when it comes to “leeks”, Sabiha’s favorite “stir fried noodles” contain it. These noodles look like a nice plump udon. On a future visit, we promise to also try the cut pasta which looks like mini wheat gnocchi.

The Ablikim brothers also offer grills. We try the cubes of lamb which are simply skewered, grilled, then sprinkled with a mixture of chilli and cumin. Charles finds them drier than those from Miran. The kidneys are rustic, but taste good.

You can decide to be more adventurous, whether at Urumqi Ozgu or Miran, for example, with specialties such as spicy lamb’s feet and tripe or tongue salads. We also saved these dishes for a future visit.

It goes without saying that Uyghur cuisine is the result of a large number of interbreedings over the centuries. Influences come as much from the West (Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, etc.) as from other Chinese provinces and even from India. The identity and character nonetheless seem very strong.

Price

Dishes are made to be shared. There is sometimes a medium format and a large one. Noodles are around $15. You’ll get four lamb kebabs for $13.99. The medium chicken is $34.99. The three of us spent a hundred dollars, before taxes and tip, for a very hearty meal and three take-out containers.

Information

Urumqi Ozgu uyghur cuisine is open Monday to Friday, from 1:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Saturday, from noon to 10 p.m., at 1617, avenue Dollard, in the borough of LaSalle. It is also possible to order for take-out.