Why talk about it?
Who says March says spring, thaw, rising sap, maple syrup and sugar shack! Many Quebecers indulge in this activity which is part of our folklore and our identity. And, in this area, we find more and more gastronomic proposals. The reputation of the Coureur des bois, in Beloeil, is well established. That of his cabin in Saint-Marc-sur-Richelieu, launched in 2019, but of which this is only the second season since the pandemic, is carried by a favorable rumor.
Who are they ?
PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
Jean-Sébastien Giguère, executive chef and partner, surrounded by Félix Chabot, sommelier, and François Chartier, maple producer
A meticulous chef with undeniable talent, Jean-Sébastien Giguère has a diverse background: crazy! at the Cabane du Pied de Cochon, from the late Decca77 to the Taverne 1909 at the Bell Center, the opening of which he led. Today he is executive chef and partner of COGIR Restaurants, an entity that brings together Le Coureur des bois, La Cabane du coureur, h3 and the new Climats counter, at Time Out Market Montreal.
The Runner’s Cabin is more than an ephemeral sugar shack. It’s a whole ecosystem in which a distiller and maple producer, François Chartier, is responsible for the 5,000 taps in the maple grove, but also the people who take care of the chickens, the hives, the vegetable garden and the greenhouses, without forgetting those who officiating in the room, notably the maître d’hôtel Chantal Plourde (also at Coureur des bois) and the sommelier Félix Chabot.
Our experience
PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The Runner’s Cabin
On Saturday March 2, 6 p.m., we are among the first to enter the cabin. It’s a rainy day, a bit gloomy, and it’s the very first opening night of the 2024 season. I’ve eaten almost nothing all day, I’m ready to tackle my first sugar shack meal of the year !
It may be opening day, but nothing seems like it. The team already seems established. As the groups take their seats, the “waves” pass over the large torpedoes and settle on the tables.
First wave: entries. My favorite service of the evening: not too heavy, with nods to tradition, sometimes a bit reinvented, but nothing to (too much) offend the purists.
The pea soup with its smoked shredded ham – very good – sits in its large bowl with its ladle. Our very friendly server praises it to us, but I find that the flavors lack depth. On the ring sit the essential “crisse ears”: crispy, not too greasy, enough to make you addicted! The bite is perfect, with the soft brioche bread stuffed with Nordic shrimp and, hidden at the bottom, a tender omelette. This is a successful dish, both in terms of flavors and textures.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
A classic: pea soup, here topped with pulled ham, with maple, of course.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The guedille, irresistible with its “crisse ears” and Brussels sprouts in maple butter with fried chicken.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The “third wave”, sweet as can be: a clafoutis with haskap and morello cherry, chocolate with creamy tiramisu, sweet clover and strawberries and a fried crepe with maple butter and Dunes pepper.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
Teriyaki, maple and sesame ribs, as a starter
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The dining room is reminiscent of the traditional sugar shack with its long communal tables.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
In good weather, you can finish the meal outside, around the fire, surrounded by the maple grove.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
All maple syrup is produced on site.
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The maple grove has 5000 taps.
1/8
The teriyaki-maple ribs and fried chicken with Brussels sprouts and maple butter mayo are quickly gobbled up. What worries me: facing the second wave, which is coming before my rounded eyes.
The royal cassolette (bacon, homemade sausage, beans, foie gras sauce) will satisfy lovers of hearty dishes of this type, but my heart beats more for the trout confit in its creamy leek-maple cream and its mujol caviar, a touch welcome saline, and mussels. On the focaccia, burrata whipped with mascarpone and, underneath, a truffle and shiitake sauce, into which I bite with satisfaction. We can’t finish it all, but we pack the extra into takeaways, convincing ourselves there’s still room for dessert!
The child celebrates with pancakes fried in duck fat, with maple butter. It may not taste like the Dunes pepper that is integrated into it, but I like the local touches that we find in this third wave like the sweet clover in the deconstructed tiramisu or the morello cherry and haskap berries in the clafoutis.
And since it would be a sin to refuse it – and there is always room for maple taffy! –, we finish the meal as it should be. As the rain prevents us from enjoying the outdoor areas and the fire, the taffy is poured directly at the table onto (artificial) snow collected in a small box. Less typical, but just as satisfying!
In our glass
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The Prestige agreement
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The Sommelier agreement
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PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
The wine list is extensive.
1/3
Drink well at the sugar shack? It’s possible ! The very refined wine list bears witness to this. Classic grape varieties and appellations as well as some Quebec wines are found there. There is a choice of wines by the glass and it is possible to choose the pairing (Sommelier or Prestige). I particularly appreciated the Crémant du Jura Extra-Brut Indigène (André and Mireille Tissot), very tight bubbles, an excellent introduction to counterbalance the sugar and fat!
Price
Very reasonable for the quantity served: $65 per adult, $35 for children aged 4 to 11, free for children aged 3 and under. Food and service pairings (3 glasses) at $35 (Sommelier) or $65 (Prestige).
Good to know
PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
On site, several farm animals such as chickens and goats
Vegetarian and vegan menus are offered, at the same price as the usual menu. A store where you can purchase all the local maple products is located on site. The space is suitable for people with reduced mobility. Children will love visiting the farm animals!
Information
Open until April 28, Fridays and Saturdays, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations required.
158, of the 60 row, Saint-Marc-sur-Richelieu
Visit the La Cabane du Runner website