Restaurant review | Rose Ross: Masson’s star

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the establishment. This week: Rose Ross.

Iris Gagnon Paradise
The Press

Why talk about it?

There are the new trendy restaurants, the popular tables where star chefs officiate, the darlings of the moment… But there are also establishments which, without fanfare, offer season after season an experience that is worth the detour, with authenticity. and dedication. This is the case of Rose Ross, opened five years ago on rue Masson, which has unquestionably become the best restaurant on the commercial artery, appreciated by a loyal clientele. Customers that the place has served tirelessly with a take-out menu from the first moments of the pandemic. It is among other things to underline the hard work of the restaurateurs who have continued to bring our neighborhoods to life for almost two years that we have chosen to tell you about Rose Ross.

Who are they ?

Together, Sébastien Courville and Myriam Pelletier have a solid track record. He was notably a chef at Robin des Bois and Café Les Entretiens, while she worked with Normand Laprise at Toqué!, from where she derives her love for local ingredients and her philosophy of respect for the product. She will not pour out on her well-stocked CV, but her partner of the last 12 years will do it in her place, evoking her career in France in Michelin-starred restaurants such as Arpège, with chef Alain Passard, or L’Écusson. , with Hélène Darroze. In the kitchen, the chef works with passion and composes her dishes by focusing on textures and contrasts — she was also a food stylist. Sébastien is busy both in the kitchen, simmering his macerations, for example, and in the dining room, where he makes sure it works properly. To support the duo, a small team of five employees is on duty.

Our experience

Living in the Rosemont district, I sat down a few times at Rose Ross. Each time, the welcome was friendly, the atmosphere warm and the dishes almost always impeccable. It is not uncommon for Sébastien Courville to know the majority of customers by their first names during a service. “It’s like a village! “, he notes, echoing the pretty window displaying the inscription “Masson Village”.

The name of the establishment pays homage to Rose, the chef’s great-grandmother. And it’s the nostalgic chord that the owners want to strike at their table, with dishes inspired by comfort food Quebecers who plunge us into happy childhood memories.

Thus, we reinvent certain Rose Ross classics that give familiar dishes with a little surprising and exciting je-ne-sais-quoi. For example, the dish of fried cauliflower, with airy breading, is reminiscent of fish and chips with its accompaniment of tartar-style sauce, capers and parmesan, then cut by the bitterness of arugula.

The menu worked by Myriam is constantly evolving and tied to the seasons. The evening of our visit, we were treated to two ideal dishes to face the freezing cold outside. First, a runny poached egg with its mushroom ragout coated in a gourmet red wine sauce sprinkled with a piece of homemade smoked meat. Textured and enveloping! More classic but very indulgent, the braised Quebec pork cheek was very tender with its cheddar potato aligot, garlic meat jus and mirepoix.

At the other end of the spectrum, the beautiful piece of Alaskan cod with flaky flesh, topped with thin slices of fennel, was placed on a composition inspired by a Provençal classic, artichokes à la barigoule. The latter, fleshy and tender, were accompanied by crunchy vegetables – carrots, turnips – topped with a creamy and frankly tasty lemony sauce. A dish mastered to perfection.

For dessert, the rice pudding delighted us with its originality, while sweet clover replaced vanilla and the red fruit coulis was seasoned with sumac, two ingredients from our region. The acidity of the passion fruit balanced the whole wonderfully well.

But the highlight of the show is without a doubt the large cabbage stuffed with praline mousseline cream and vanilla ice cream, topped with fleur de sel caramel, a classic on the menu. And the little taste that brings back memories? It’s a Bobolink cookie crumble. “I remember eating my Bobolink biscuit with one of my grandmothers. Goglus were needed somewhere! “recalls Miriam.

In our glass

Sébastien Courville takes care of stocking his shelves with bottles for all tastes. The prices are attractive, a desire of the house to remain accessible. More classic choices are on offer, but also a good selection of more natural wines. The house offers the option of choosing a pairing of three wines by the glass for $39 (or $26 for half glasses). The cocktail menu is made up of classics with little touches of fantasy, such as the “Bee Sting”, based on vodka, honey infused with bird’s eye chili and orange blossom water.

How much ?

A three-course menu of the day is offered at a cost of $55, with the possibility of adding six oysters as an aperitif ($18) or a Quebec cheese service ($16). À la carte, entrees generally range between $15 and $20; main dishes range from $25 to $35.

Good to know

The Ross Ross is easily accessible for people with reduced mobility. In addition, the menu generally includes a vegetarian starter and main course. The pretty window and some elements of the decor (including the new toilets) were created by André-Anne LeBlanc and Betty Siemers (Majestique Show).

Information

Rose Ross is open Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30 p.m. Reservations recommended.

3017 Masson Street, Montreal