Have you, like me, caught this mysterious disease of FOMO (fear of missing out) from the restaurant? An expression which evokes this state where we are always afraid of missing something, for example by deciding to stay at home on a Friday evening – the evening, obviously, will be unforgettable and we will have missed everything. For my part, it manifests itself in this feeling of never being able to visit ALL the new restaurants that seem worth the detour.
On my wish list: Panacée, Polari, Motel Ontario, Romies, La Spada, Claire et Jacques, Heni, Île-de-France, the list goes on and on. And we’re not talking about older openings that I missed and addresses in the suburbs of Montreal or in the region that I promise to visit. Hello, Auberge Saint-Mathieu!
Meanwhile, establishments last over time, which are not always entitled to the same attention. Some I’ve never even visited, too busy chasing the latest. This is the reason why I returned this week to a place that I had not visited for… far too long, the Bouillon Bilk.
It took an unfortunate fire, which destroyed the premises, and a move a few steps away, for me to revisit this table which no longer needs to be presented.
From the outset, I’m a fan of pretty much everything that Mélanie Blanchette and chef François Nadon do. Exceptional restaurateurs. I visited Le Cadet, one of my favorite restaurants in Montreal for pre-shows, more often than not, and Place Carmin a few times (but never Uncle Lee, another addition to my never-ending list).
But their baby is Bouillon Bilk, opened in 2011. The place is of course busy in the evening, but has become widely known for its dinner. So it was one midday in September that I went to the new premises, located in the Cultural Showcase, where Accords was previously located. The team was able to quickly turn around and reopen two months after the fire, explains Mélanie, who welcomes me with her usual warmth.
The table d’hôte formula for the dinner is simple: a four-course menu including an appetizer, a starter, a main course and a dessert. The only choices you will have to make are for the second and third services.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Chica Morada, made with pisco and purple corn syrup
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The wine list offers Quebec vintages, like here, a rosé from the Pigeon Hill vineyard and a sparkling wine from Joy Hill, then artisan wines from elsewhere, like this La Plage red gamay by Jean Maupertuis.
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It’s Friday, so we start with a cocktail: Tea Time for my friend, an herbaceous and tangy composition based on Seedlip Grove non-alcoholic spirits with citrus fruits; a Chica Morada for me, a slightly tropical creation and quite a bit more spicy with pisco, purple corn syrup, pineapple and cinnamon. Hot in front!
We have an appetite when the cute appetizer presents itself: a quenelle of tuna and yuzu tartare covered with a thin slice of marinated daikon. A mayonnaise made from black beans coats the whole thing. It’s delicate, fresh and crunchy. I just take a bite out of it.
My partner’s little cucumber salad is simple, but not simple. A few elements enhance it, like a raspberry gel and a sunflower-based dukkah.
My tomato and pepper gazpacho is tasty. There float pieces of marinated anchovies and crumbled almonds, which add texture and saltiness to the whole. To accompany it, I taste the Le Recul maceration wine (Ferme Le Raku served by the glass, a rarity that I enjoy!) whose flavors blend well with the whole.
It’s difficult to find any fault with all these plates. The cuisine is classic, but with that little extra in the work with ingredients and the exploration of a host of flavors from here and elsewhere that make it stand out from the crowd. The execution is flawless and the service is exquisite and highly professional.
That said, the sauce which bathes the cavatelli with braised shoulder of lamb, cooked al dente and beautifully presented, seems a little watery to me – it must be said that we had finished all the bread! –, but my friend doesn’t complain about it. As for me, I admire the way the chef elevates the cod dish by combining the fish with fennel and a truly sublime curry fromage blanc, without forgetting the pistachio crumble for crunch.
The dessert appears, photogenic with its white and purplish hues against the background of a black plate. The financier, very soft, is well accompanied with its plump Concord grapes, which are presented fresh and in sorbet. Whipped cream and a few grains of caramelized popcorn add to the deliciousness. I am well satisfied, and all that, at a reasonable price.
Thank you, Bouillon. I’ll tell you I’ll be back soon, but I’m having a little FOMO problem…
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Bilk Broth
Price
$55 for the four-course lunch table d’hôte – you can also order from the evening menu, the prices of which range from around $25 for starters to between $34 and $48 for main courses.
Good to know
The new Bouillon Bilk is a few minutes from the old location at the corner of Saint-Laurent and Sainte-Catherine. The owners do not yet know if they will return to the other space. For now, they have found their home.
Information
Open Monday to Friday noon (11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) and Monday to Sunday evening (5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.)
22, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montreal
Visit the Bouillon Bilk website