It was in 2018 that Yann Lévy (Escondite, Biiru, Gokudo, Hanzō) had the idea for the concept behind the Neo Tokyo: a place with a retrofuturistic aesthetic inspired in particular by the film blade runner – of which he is an “unconditional” fan – and of the “cyberpunk” movement, where ramen and other noodle dishes such as can be enjoyed in Japan, a country that the restaurateur has visited many times, are served.
A little before the pandemic hit the planet, he set his sights on premises located on the ground floor of 425, avenue Viger Ouest, recently completely renovated, and at the heart of a sector in full development, with the new complex Humaniti next door, and surrounded by the Palais des Congrès and the Caisse de dépôt et placement du Québec, among others. “I’ve lived in the area for years, so I know the neighborhood well, what there is… and what there isn’t, including ramen! “, he says.
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Preferring to play it safe during this period of uncertainty, he waited for the situation to be more stable before setting his project in motion and finally opened its doors in December, after multiple problems and delays. The success was instantaneous, so it had to close for a few weeks to make adjustments. Reopened in early 2023, with a shortened menu for now, the Neo Tokyo does not take reservations. During our visit on Wednesday, a line had formed before the doors opened at 5:30 p.m. A few minutes later, the restaurant was full, showing the interest in this new offer in the neighborhood.
It is true that with its design where one has the impression of being in a Tokyo alley illuminated by neon lights and posters, the place catches the eye. And the menu offers an incursion into the world of Japanese noodle bars. There’s a tonkatsu ramen soup and a few entrees that won’t faze izayaka lovers – chicken karaage, gyoza, shrimp wonton – but the restaurateur would like to focus his offer around mazemens, bowls of noodles without broth. The one with bacon cream is rich and flavorful, reminiscent of carbonara noodles with an Asian twist. The Neotokyo Taiwanese Mazesoba, with its beef soboro (ground beef cooked in a dashi), its various toppings, runny egg and noodles hidden at the bottom – you have to mix everything! – comes with a small bowl of rice, which is used to taste the remaining toppings at the bottom of the bowl once the noodles have been swallowed. Several dishes were also created in collaboration with Sighetoshi Nakamura, who owns a restaurant of the same name in New York, considered by many to be a “god” of ramen, with whom Lévy has become friends.
To quench your thirst, refreshing and light cocktails, sake and Japanese beers on tap are on offer. The restaurateur plans to add items to its menu over the next few months, open at lunchtime and also later in the evening, in snack bar. And we bet that the customers will be there!
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
520 Viger Avenue West, Montreal