During training in permaculture, Julien Clot discovered the American cavalier, a name still unknown in the repertoire of this fermentation enthusiast and curious about boreal spices. “I tasted it and that’s when I discovered aromas of citrus and pepper, and this sensation of numbness in the mouth and salivary glands that flow the river…” A striking encounter that we understand sealed by fiery sensations. The man sets out to conquer the object of his love at first sight.
The American pineapple, also known as the prickly ash or Zanthoxylum americanum, for those close to me, is not a newcomer to the territory. It is found on the east coast of Canada and the United States, where it is considered a protected species.
Why are we (re)discovering it now, in the kitchen? The same question arises for many plants with which we have broken all ties of attachment, perhaps having our eyes turned towards foodstuffs from elsewhere.
The American Shorthaired Pointer is, however, one of the species listed by Brother Marie-Victorin in his Laurentian flora, almost a century ago. Long before him, First Nations used it for its anesthetic properties by chewing its bark and fruits to relieve toothache. As dentistry has evolved since then, it is rather from a gourmet angle that we approach it today.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESSE ARCHIVES
Julien Clot
In conditions that are ideal for it – sun, calcareous and well-drained soil – the American redhorse spreads out with vigor, but it manages to make its way in a less familiar context. “It’s weed!” », says Julien Clot affectionately, who we know will be won over. After spotting a “tiller” in an old orchard in the Outaouais, seven years ago, the picker lovingly tended it. Later, his nursery trials bore fruit. The plant lets itself be gently coaxed, it seems. “It takes years to have an interesting harvest. We are just starting to get a good quantity of berries. »
Take with a grain of salt
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SYMBIOSE ALIMENTERRE
The spicy fruits of the American keyboard
When mature, this thorny shrub can reach seven meters in height. In spring, it is adorned with small yellow flowers which give way to green berries the size of a peppercorn, which turn red at the end of summer. That’s when things get tricky. Resilient, but fierce, the plant does not allow itself to be meekly stripped of its peppery rubies.
“When you go in there, it skins you!” summarizes Julien Clot. Picking is difficult, which makes it a product available in very limited quantities. »
The man and his troop set up camp in the orchard in August. The berries are harvested by deseeding the fruits from the plants. In addition to its armor of thorns, the object of desire produces essential oils which sensitize the skin to the sun and produce blisters. It is therefore with leather gloves, substantial clothing and know-how that she will be approached. Enough to discourage the less courageous…
“But these aromas…!” », adds the knight of the bay, immediately transported into a world of taste.
The spice of here
“These aromas…”, therefore. Botanical cousin of Sichuan and Sancho peppers, which are cultivated in South-West Asia and appear in numerous recipes from these countries on the other side of the globe, the American cavalier is one of these “false peppers” of which flavors change the destiny of a dish. It leaves a lighter tingling sensation on the tongue than its Asian counterparts. It also differs from sweet balsam and dune pepper, which grow here, by being more zesty. “It will pick up notes of lemon, tangerine and lime zest,” describes the connoisseur, who was interested in ways of transforming it in his facilities in Labelle, in the Laurentians.
His food fermentation company, SymbiOse AlimenTerre, works with sauerkraut, tempeh, kimchi and other atypical foods resulting from fermentation. Now added is the American cavalier integrated into a spicy sauce and other products that we will soon be able to discover, such as a fermented spicy paste and a cavalier honey. The entrepreneur also collaborates with well-known names in Quebec gastronomy, including La Tanière, les Faux Bergers, Légende and le Champlain.
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PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE COMONT DISTILLERY SITE
The Comont distillery, in Bedford, incorporates American cavalier into its traditional Gin, produced on site from corn grains from Montérégie ($49.50 for 750 ml).
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PHOTO PROVIDED BY SYMBIOSE ALIMENTERRE
La Clavalière spicy sauce with lacto-fermented organic pepper, from SymbiOse AlimenTerre ($15 for 150 ml). You can also contact the company to obtain dried ($1.5 per g) or fresh ($3 per g) American keyboard berries.
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PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SPICES DU CRU SITE
American cavalier pepper is included in the Épices du cru collection ($19.75 for 5 g).
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When will the American keyboard be integrated into our spice cabinet? Soon, wishes Julien Clot.
It clearly has the potential to find a place on our plates, especially with the interest in Asian cuisine.
Julien Clot
The entrepreneur, however, adopts the philosophy of “slowly, but wisely” for the marketing of his protégé, which he sells in small doses on call, aiming for wider distribution next year.
“A small amount of this spice goes a long way ! decrees Julien Clot. It adds an unknown flavor that takes you by surprise and is just enough to take you on a journey without interrupting the taste experience. Grinded into a spicy soup, it’s quite interesting, thanks. Same thing with fish, vinaigrettes, jams, marinades, curries… In chocolate, biscuits and on vanilla ice cream? Fly too! », he lists, putting our taste buds into ecstasy. And we suddenly begin to envy this rare initiate, while waiting for the day of our meeting with the subject of a spicy story.