Make the quarter-finals of the Netflix series Drink Mastersit doesn’t change the life of a mixologist, except that…
Loyd Von Rose, born Loïc Fortin – his alter ego demonstrates a certain sense of spectacle! –, was beverage director for the Park restaurant without knowing that he would one day be at the bar, but also in the kitchen.
“I have always cooked,” says the man who was not cut out for culinary school and who was seduced by mixology for the contact with people. “I’m very social. »
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Loyd Von Rose opened the restaurant La Gargamelle.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Oysters hide under this yuzu sabayon served with fish roe, marinated chili, coconut emulsion and coriander sprouts. To accompany it, a martini with coconut oil made with the technique of fat washing.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The decor is warm and unpretentious.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
On a pea puree and walnut espuma: pan-fried scallops garnished with grapefruit-infused oil and accompanied by a quinoa tuile.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Black cod marinated in miso and smoked with maple wood, served with Chinese broccoli, lacto-fermented corn puree and kombu seaweed.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The stone walls and the view of the quays create a… port atmosphere!
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
There are several options for sake and privately imported wines from Bacchus and Le vin dans les voiles. Loyd Von Rose plans to add some more classic proposals.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
La Gargamelle is hidden behind the infamous Tittle Tattle Cocktail Bar at 22, rue Saint-Paul Est.
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After opening the infamous Tittle Tattle Cocktail Bar nine months ago in a building on rue Saint-Paul, he took advantage of the unused space at the back – with a view overlooking the quays – to camp out his new project, a restaurant this time: La Gargamelle. The spark came at the start of the New Year by offering loved ones a seven-course menu: with an open kitchen and a limited number of 25 seats, it was possible to prepare dishes without being locked in a kitchen.
My goal is to be able to sit and chat with customers. As if people were coming to my house in my kitchen. For me, that’s hospitality.
Loyd von Rose
Loyd Von Rose doesn’t take himself too seriously, but he likes to be creative and unpredictable. He offers cocktails that don’t exist elsewhere with his own techniques (with milk clarifications and his own distillates, for example).
And its menu? “There are a lot of Japanese and Korean inspirations in what I do, which adds to the French and gourmet side. »
La Gargamelle refers to the books by François Rabelais which are the origin of the word gargantuan. If there is excess at Loyd Von Rose, it is more in his enthusiasm than in his dishes, which are rather halfway between “comforting and high-end” and their pairing with a cocktail, sake or wine. The truffle and ricotta berlingots are enjoyed with a glass of Cynar flavored with lemon oil. The crudo goes with a grappa with basil butter and tomato water, while we suggest accompanying the cassoulet simply with a natural sparkling wine. “The pairing reveals hidden flavors. It’s interactive,” says our host.
For the moment, La Gargamelle welcomes customers from Thursday to Saturday evening. Please note that the place plans to offer picnic baskets to take away during the summer season.