Gastronomy | Mature Laurels

It was in front of a surprisingly attentive and docile crowd that the fifth gala of the Lauriers de la gastronomie québécoise took place on Monday, May 29. We felt a little exhaustion of the environment, perhaps, which nevertheless accepted its rewards in a community and solidarity atmosphere.

As is the unofficial tradition of the Lauriers, Quebec and Montreal shared the most anticipated prizes, and several regions of the province shone. The always elegant Monarque, in Old Montreal, is the restaurant of the year 2023. It is well deserved for Bastien father and son (Richard and Jérémie), who have the restaurant in their blood. François-Emmanuel Nicol cooks in the gastronomic vault that is Tanière3, in Quebec. He is chef of the year.

These Laurels were those of consolidation. Many of the winners were finally winning their prizes after being finalists for several years in a row. This was the case of Perle Morency, who walked away with the prize for best service. She wished the room “a more sovereign Quebec… food-wise”. Jeffrey Finkelstein, baker of the year, was on his third nomination. Finalist at each of the four galas, Julien Vézina, from Honō Izakaya, in Quebec, is finally mixologist of the year. He accepted his trophy like a Leonardo DiCaprio at the Oscars!

The absence of Christian Bégin was felt. But he had given his good advice to his replacement at short notice, Francis Reddy: “Just start drinking wine early and you’ll be fine. “Less incisive than the other greedy comedian in recovery, the former host of Of kiwis and men led the boat with benevolence, in tandem with the founder of the Lauriers, Christine Plante.

If there is one thing that was constant during the evening, it was the evocation of the difficulties faced by the food trades, whether in the fields, in the cellars (congratulations to Simon Naud and Steve Beauséjour, of the Vignoble de la Bauge, beverage producers of the year), behind the stoves or in the dining rooms. “It’s not always easy to do what we do”, we heard several times.

Stephanie Wang, who grows beautiful Asian vegetables in Frelighsburg, Rizen, regrets that many small farms only last a few years, it’s such hard work. The one who left with the producer of the year award talks about perennial farms.

With her usual verve, Colombe St-Pierre took the stage twice, first to accept the Business or Initiative of the Year award on behalf of Mange ton Saint-Laurent, then to reveal the Chef of the Year. “You are all soldiers, because we are facing an unprecedented crisis. Northern climate, inflation, labor shortage, etc. », Launched the one who does not hide the challenges she must overcome in her Bas-Saint-Laurent.

Sister Angèle honored

Perhaps the most earthy moment of the gala was the presence on stage of drag artist Barbada with his jokes that hit home. She presented the Public Laurel, the one that is always awarded to a person who democratizes cooking for Quebecers. The triple halo Ricardo being a member of the jury, it was Geneviève O’Gleman who left with the trophy!

The animators had prepared a mass for Sister Angèle, who was awarded the Tribute Prize. Sugar cream and incense circulated in the room. Ricardo paid tribute, recalling that it was the native Italian who taught him how to make espresso and who introduced him to his precious wife and business partner Brigitte.

The 2023 jury was chaired by Patrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin, who were taking 36 hours off Brooklyn to be at the gala. They told us that their two-month residency at the restaurant Fulgurances was going very well, with lots of visitors from Quebec. Ricardo Larrivee, Claudia Doyon (2022 Mixologist of the Year), Dyan Solomon (2021 Chef of the Year), Fernande Ouellet (2021 Producer of the Year), Journalist Allison Van Rassel, Chef Danny Smiles and Chef Chanthy Yen made up the jury. There are now 6,000 members in the Lauriers Brigade, whose votes count for 50% of the final result.

Finally, know that the Event of the year, La Clé des champs de Dunham, has existed for 30 years and it is precisely next weekend (June 3-4) that this great gourmet celebration of Brome- Missisquoi.