Researchers from the University of Bordeaux are preparing to analyze and taste wines from Quebec. Not just for the pleasure of tasting: they are interested in disease-resistant grape varieties in order to reduce the use of chemicals in the Bordeaux vineyards. Grape varieties grown in the province could become a new option.
Karine Pedneault is preparing to send a very special package to France. Professor of biochemistry and plant metabolomics at the University of Quebec in Outaouais (UQO), she selected around twenty bottles of wine made with hybrids with the aim of introducing Bordeaux scientists to local grape varieties.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY KARINE PEDNEAULT
Karine Pedneault is professor of plant biochemistry and metabolomics at the University of Quebec en Outaouais.
The French have been interested in hybrids for several years, but they do not know our grape varieties or their taste. It’s not pejorative, but I warned them that they were going to be disoriented.
Karine Pedneault, professor of biochemistry and plant metabolomics at UQO
Several varieties of grapes grown in Quebec, such as Vidal and Seyval, were however developed in France 150 years ago with the aim of defeating a pest insect, phylloxera. However, these grape varieties were banned once the crisis passed.
Only one French region is an exception to the rule: Gers.
Near Toulouse, another hybrid developed in France in the 19th centurye century, Baco Blanc, represents 15% of the vines planted in the Armagnac appellation. This hybrid is appreciated for its spicy scents, but recent studies have highlighted another quality: its resistance to fungal diseases.
Baco blanc actually produces a molecule called eugenol. It has long been known for its clove flavors in wine. However, it is also present in the baco blanc vine, where it acts as an antifungal.
Researcher Xavier Hastoy devoted his thesis to this subject.
“Eugenol makes baco blanc less dependent on phytosanitary products,” he writes.
This characteristic is all the more interesting as attacks of fungal diseases, such as downy mildew, are causing more and more devastation in Europe. Last year, 90% of winegrowers in southwest France suffered losses due to a historic attack of mildew. While vine cultivation consumes 20% of all chemicals used by France’s agricultural sector, resistant grape varieties, such as those from Quebec, are of interest to researchers.
Eugenol Quest
PHOTO ESPERANZA33, GETTY IMAGES
Mildew, a fungal disease that attacks vines, is increasingly present in Europe.
Professor at the University of Bordeaux, Gilles de Revel is a taste specialist. He is impatiently awaiting the bottles selected by Quebec researcher Karine Pedneault in order to start their joint research.
Each of the chosen wines contains only one variety of grapes. In this way, the Bordeaux researcher will be able to identify which hybrid contains eugenol, and thus know which varieties are more resistant to fungal diseases.
Gilles de Revel is also curious to taste Quebec wines.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY GILLES DE REVEL
Gilles de Revel, professor at the University of Bordeaux and taste specialist
Very little is known about hybrids. We do not know their aromatic, phenolic or taste quality.
Gilles de Revel, professor at the University of Bordeaux
The researcher knows, however, that the eugenol molecule does not provide foxy aromas, associated with animal odors, which are so displeasing to tasters.
“Eugenol rather brings spicy notes,” adds Mr. de Revel. This molecule allows other aromas to rise. »
During her previous research, Karine Pedneault also found eugenol in Sabrevois, Marquette, Sainte-Croix and Maréchal-Foch.
Break down taboos
PHOTO PHILIPPE LOPEZ, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
The crux of the matter: finding more resistant varieties that will reduce the use of chemicals.
Rising temperatures and an increase in fungal diseases are already forcing the French to develop new grape varieties. However, these varieties are not called hybrid.
“The word hybrid is taboo in France,” observes Gilles de Revel. Culturally, it is derogatory. They are called resistant grape varieties. »
Each wine region tries to find a new variety that would reduce the use of chemicals in the vineyards. According to Gilles de Revel, these wines from resistant vines are often “ordinary” in terms of taste.
Could Quebec grape varieties be planted in France? The specialist does not exclude this hypothesis, but he explains that the approach aims first to better understand their own varieties.
“Hybrids will undoubtedly become more and more popular in European vineyards,” he says. When it is written on the label that these wines contain no inputs, no chemicals, they will be socially accepted. »
Vidal has just been authorized again in France. Since June, it has been included in the Cognac specifications.
Tasting notes
Little Pearl
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ SITE
Puss in Boots Little Pearl 2022
The majority of hybrids grown in Quebec produce wines with low tannin. The little pearl is the exception that proves the rule. This variety created in the United States is also less acidic. This is why it is found in half of the province’s vineyards. And you will be charmed by this vintage produced by the Chat Botté vineyard established in Hemmingford. It’s impossible not to succumb to its raspberry and strawberry scents reminiscent of summer. On the palate, subtle tannins add to the fruity structure. Serve slightly chilled.
Puss in Boots Petite Perle 2022, (15085078), $23.80
Consult the SAQ sheet
St-Pépin
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ SITE
Vineyard 1292 St-Pepin 2021
St-Pépin produces complex and delicious wines in Quebec. However, this American hybrid has long been put aside by producers, due to the difficulties in fertilizing its flowers. They eventually found techniques to get around this problem, and now St-Pépin is found in 39% of Quebec vineyards. This is the case in Saint-Blaise-sur-Richelieu, in Montérégie, at the 1292 vineyard. This white seduces with its aromas of apple and honey which fill the glass. The crisp and lively attack is enhanced by a rounder texture which increases complexity and pleasure. The perfect combo with Quebec lobster. For lovers of woody chardonnay, the St-Pépin du Coteau Rougemont, aged in oak barrels, is definitely worth discovering.
Vignoble 1292 St. Pepin 2021, (13835761), $21.05
Visit the SAQ website