Project
Doing finishing work around the house is an accessible and enjoyable task, even for apprentice do-it-yourselfers. The installation of interior moldings is precisely the kind of light and pleasant work to do yourself.
In the first place
Aside from creating decor, most moldings have a dual action. The molding around a door or a window hides the framing and the structure; the lower wall moulding, for its part, camouflages the space between the wall and the floor covering. It therefore becomes unavoidable.
The molding comes in different materials. MDF (pine fiber) molding is economical and easy to cut. It only has a primer and it must be painted after being fixed.
Wood molding is also an option. In maple, oak or pine, it can be stained, waxed, oiled or varnished. Although it is more expensive, it is strong and very durable. The finger jointed pine model is a cheap option for a wood molding, but it should be painted for a better final look.
The molding creates a trompe-l’oeil. For it to work well, make sure you don’t force anything.
The tools
- Tape measure
- Miter saw (ideal)
- Air-powered or battery-powered nail gun (ideal)
- Spirit level
- caulking gun
How to do it
1. Measure the molding. Lay your measuring tape over the edge of the face-framing hem to the other hem.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
We start by measuring the molding.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The hem is often molded and is approximately 1/8 inch.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The hem of the door frame serves as an aesthetic guide to set the molding back.
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2. Cut the molding. Check, adjust and fix. Your saw blade is 1/8 inch. Be careful to put your blade on the right side to have the exact measurement. A tip: measure at the long point, it is easier to spot when cutting with the miter saw. Otherwise, draw it all to guide you.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Cut the molding using a miter saw.
We see more and more door and window framing with straight cuts for a contemporary look. If you choose this option, to help you during installation, attach the top molding, then the sides.
Patrick Mathon, ICK Enterprises
3. Fix the moldings. Use a pneumatic nail gun. She is fast and precise. The advantage of the straight, profileless contemporary molding is that it allows sanding for a better fit. If necessary, drive in your nailheads.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Use a pneumatic nail gun to attach the moldings.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Make sure your angle is properly aligned at 45 degrees. Otherwise, readjust with a prying tool and nail directly into the molding to solidify everything.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
On the hinge side, add 1/16” to prevent the molding from rubbing on the hinge, straining and making noise.
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Last step
4. Pull a latex cord. The latex serves as a glue to solidify the molding and aesthetically, it hides the shading and brings back the line. Also fill in corners or cut edges. This finishing part adds an essential aesthetic aspect.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Pull a bead of latex to solidify the molding and provide a more aesthetic finish. It can also be painted.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The latex cord hides the shading and brings the line back.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Also fill in the corners and cut edges.
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PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Tip: keep a damp cloth handy. It helps keep your fingers clean and moist to help glide over the latex. You can also clean off the excess at the same time.
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A little further
The use of classic moldings, when assembled according to a well-established pattern, can create an interesting decor at a low cost. The success of this kind of project is in the planning and in the good use of space (and your imagination!) to achieve a wall with different and personalized accents. Some companies specializing in wall covering can offer you moldings with stylish profiles or offer combinations of moldings which, once properly assembled, create different and remarkable decors.