A fair balance
“The most important thing is really balance,” David Giroux responds straight away when asked what makes a good apple pie. According to the chef who has always had a keen interest in pastry, the dough should be neither too hard nor too soft and its presence should not take over the filling which should not be too sweet.
A sweet dough
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, LA PRESSE ARCHIVES
Successful pie crust equals succulent apple pie!
The type of dough is important, believes David Giroux. “The mistake people make is to use shortcrust pastry. […] It’s the kind of dough that I find tasteless. In apple pie, there are two main elements: the dough and the apples. You have to make sure that these elements are really, really good. I prefer sweet dough. »
The chef suggests a 100% butter dough with almond powder or a little vanilla inside. “Of course it’s a little more complex to work with, because it’s more crumbly,” concedes the man who was a pastry chef in France at the Äponem restaurant, decorated with a Michelin star. Do you have any advice to make the task easier? “It’s really the kind of dough that needs to be worked cold,” he replies. If it becomes too hot when lowered, don’t hesitate to put it back in the refrigerator for a bit. What if, despite everything, it cracks? “It’s not uncommon that even me, when I make pies, I have to patch holes with small pieces,” he confides, in complete transparency. According to him, the taste is well worth the challenge.
Good apples
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Second key element: apples, of course!
Cortland, Spartan, Gala, McIntosh, Lobo, Paulared, Empire… On the Quebec apple producers’ website, we list nearly twenty local varieties. Which one to choose for making pies? The answer depends on the desired consistency and the desired taste, believes David Giroux. Some people will like their fruit to be almost completely melted, while others will prefer the filling to have more texture, argues the chef.
The best, according to him, is to “try the varieties of apples to see which one suits us best, whether in terms of acidity, sugar or texture.” To guide your research, you can consult the Quebec apple producers website.
Spices and sugar
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
At the end of the day, the important thing is to have fun.
Cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves are the classic spices found in our grandmothers’ apple pie recipes, but why limit yourself to them? “Star anise works well too. Cardamom is a spice that could also be interesting. »
According to David Giroux, black cardamom, with its slightly smoky notes, is surprising. Additionally, you can have fun by changing the white sugar for one of our “beautiful substitutes from Quebec like birch syrup, maple syrup or honey”.
Creativity and fun
Any last advice? Let your creativity flow and have fun, says David Giroux. “There are so many possible variations. With a top, no top. I’ve seen it before with a little cream sugar mixture inside. […] We could add pears and walnuts,” he says. Personally, the chef likes to take inspiration from French pastry chef Cédric Grolet, who arranges apples in the shape of a rose on top of the dessert. “It’s a beautiful, very visual pie! »
Apple pie, crispy effect
PHOTO PATRICK DESROCHERS, PROVIDED BY THE MARKET LES HALLES D’ANJOU
Annual apple pie competition at Les Halles d’Anjou Market
Among David Giroux’s favorite apple pie recipes, we find that of the École hôtelière des Laurentides, where he did his training. As a young student, he and his cohort had to bake many pies for the school store. He remembers that he wasn’t the most productive of the group. “I ate so much!” Honestly, it didn’t make any sense,” he admits, laughing. Here is this irresistible recipe, which he has slightly modified.
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Ingredients
- 1 store-bought or homemade sweet pastry
Ingredients for the filling
- 350g Cortland apples
- 75 g granulated sugar
- 25 g strong flour
- 1 g ground cinnamon
Ingredients for the crumble
- 75 g strong flour
- 50 g brown sugar
- 75 g of unsalted butter
Preparation
- Line a 20 cm (8 in) tart ring.
- Wash, peel, core and slice the apples.
- Mix the filling ingredients.
- Place the apple mixture in the bottom of the tart.
- Spread the butter, flour and brown sugar.
- Spread the mixture over the apples.
- Bake at 175 oC (350 oF) for 30 minutes.