Cycling circuit | Far from the boulevards, closer to the fields in Laval

If, in your mind, Laval can be summed up as a web of boulevards overloaded with gleaming cars, come take a few spins in the east of Île Jésus, where banks full of fish and abundant fields form a charming setting for a stroll. by bike. And this, at the gates of Montreal. Follow the guide (and the handlebars) on this sixty-kilometre trip, on the flat, between farms and orchards with gourmet stops.

Sylvain Sarrazin
The Press

Metro, bike, take it easy

Unlike the hardened cyclist, the average pedaler likes to spare his calves and reserve them for the most beautiful portions of his trip. This is why he will appreciate the possibility of boarding his rolling steed in public transport to begin this trip to the heart of the matter. We tested this option by taking the Montreal metro to the Cartier station, before installing it on a bus support, heading for Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, our starting point, in eastern Laval. . Indeed, from 1^er May to October 31, the entire STL bus fleet is equipped with racks for a pair of bicycles. Verdict: very practical and without a hitch. Beware, however, of metro stations without lifts and during rush hours, during which bicycles are prohibited on board the trains.

Cradled by the shore

So here we are in the shadow of the Saint-Vincent-de-Paul church, in an eponymous district where the walls are still steeped in local history. Before getting on your bike for several hours, you can consult the application Explore Laval, which highlights places of heritage interest, such as the former residence of notary Joseph-Wenceslas Lévesque, which looks proud. A cycle lane then extends its arms to us along Lévesque Boulevard, bordering an imposing penitentiary, in operation from 1873 to 1989. Glued to the bank, the path allows very beautiful views of the Rivière des Prairies and its Montreal shore. . Already, short stops are tempting (the bank of the Brise and its view of the Olivier-Charbonneau bridge), embellished with appearances of birds of all kinds. At the end of this first portion, a change of scenery is gradually observed: the residences fade and become more spaced out, and nature gently imposes itself. Bye-bye greyness!

A stop at the tip

The trail leads us naturally to the Olivier-Charbonneau shoreline, from where it is possible to observe the Rivière des Prairies and the Rivière des Mille Îles unite. In this relaxing landscaped area, you can also consult one of the 21 terminals scattered along Laval’s waterways, constituting the River Rally; a circuit of informative panels enlightening us about them, completed by an application (C.I. Water). For example, this one tells us, among other things, why the Rivière des Prairies is so named. To discover during his cycling breaks.

The farm, otherwise

The road resumes, this time along the shore of the Rivière des Mille Îles, heading west. The cycle lane disappears, but the sparse traffic allows you to enjoy the tranquility of the place and the small houses in the neighborhoods. Our objective: the Forget farm, inland. There, the owner, Mathieu Forget, perpetuates the agricultural activities of his ancestors… but in his own way. Alongside pick-your-own activities (among others, berries, sunflowers, squash, pumpkins, etc.), it has set up areas for agrotourism activities for families, such as a giant corn maze, a mini-farm, games for the little ones (and for the big ones too, like tractor pulling). Access to some of the activities is subject to a small entrance fee. “We try to offer something different, rather than visitors coming, picking them up and leaving immediately. Many stay here for three or four hours,” says Mr. Forget. You can also admire, in season, the beautiful fields of sunflowers and flowers, at the back of the sales kiosk (there are vegetables galore, but also a variety of homemade products). This fall, a hundred varieties of squash and pumpkins will be offered.

A whole cheese

We retrace our steps a bit to get back to the banks and head for… goats. Next stop: the Vieux St-François cheese dairy, ideally located on the side of the road. Open since 1996, the establishment offers all kinds of dairy variations drawn from its large herd of goats and kiddies, grazing just a stone’s throw away. Marc-André Marchand, co-owner with his sister Christelle, presented their tasty products to us, including his Bouchées d’amour (balls of soft fresh cheese preserved in grapeseed oil, possibly flavored), his goat’s cheddar or again his Tomme du Haut St-François, with a very tasty finish. There are also goat’s milk soaps and all kinds of charcuterie, for a delicious dinner…

Get lost in the apples

Shortly after the cheese dairy, we embark on a second incursion into the land, along Sainte-Marie Boulevard. On this large strip of countryside, the rural face of Laval reaches its climax, with a series of fields and crops in shimmering colors. Boulevard Saint-Martin has never been so far! After a short detour, we end up fainting: those of the Gibouleau orchard, founded a hundred years ago. Pick-your-own activities have just started for the fall, and visitors can enjoy twenty varieties, such as Honey Gold, Honeycrisp or McIntosh, the most popular according to owner Marc Gibouleau. They also prepare donuts and very nice pies, for cyclists in need of sugar on the road.

Ideas of freshness

No need to drive much further to reach the Vaillancourt farm, another farm firmly rooted in the Laval landscape for several generations. Today, the dynamic Vyckie is taking up the torch, with original ideas (read about its Quebec citrus growing project, reported by our colleague Iris Gagnon-Paradis). This portion is not (yet) accessible to the public, but on the other hand, an avalanche of tasty fruits and vegetables harvested on site are offered at the shop on the side of the road. “My grandmother founded the original small business… and since then, small cabanon has become big! says the next-generation market gardener, who also grows flowers in greenhouses, with a smile.

Naturally

To conclude this skewer of stages in beauty, two options of corners of nature are offered to the slightly exhausted cyclist. The first is Plage-Idéale, a historic post-war vacation spot, quiet shores where cars are prohibited. The other option would be the Berge des Baigneurs, very popular with locals and for which redevelopment work began in 2021. Perfect for a green stopover.

roll green

To complete the loop, the De la Concorde metro station will now be in the crosshairs. That’s good, because from the Sainte-Rose sector, it is possible to take the Route verte, going directly to the resort. Separated from the road and pleasantly laid out, this long track allows you to go straight while skirting the urban forest of Bois de l’Équerre. Crossing the doors of the metro, we are a little surprised: after having pedaled for hours on the shores of the island, our tires have never found themselves on any boulevard crowded with furious cars. So don’t listen to those who claim that Laval is just a big mushroom of concrete: they are in the field; or rather, deserve to go there.