Wines for sugars

Eating at the sugar shack is always synonymous with conviviality and festivities. This is even more true for Easter, after two years of pandemic. If this rich and generous cuisine seems difficult at first sight to accompany with wine, here are some ideas that will bring as much freshness as happiness!

Karyne Duplessis Piche
special collaboration

Don’t be afraid of sugar!

Contrary to what you might think, don’t be afraid to pair sugar with sugar, says sommelier Hugo Duchesne. “In agreement with the maple, an unsweetened wine is going to seem even drier than it is,” he says. The acidity will be aggressive or the tannins in reds will seem metallic simply because the wine lacks sugar. »

This is why many sommeliers immediately recommend a Riesling with the sugar shack meal. This typical white wine from Germany and Alsace often has a few grams of residual sugar. However, its balance on the palate is impeccable thanks to its high acidity. Close to home in Quebec, Domaine Léon Courville crafts a fresh, taut Riesling with classic citrus flavors that will make a local and delicious shack pairing. Easier to find at the SAQ, Cave Spring Riesling in Niagara is also a good choice. Its aromas of flowers and wet pebbles are found in a crunchy and fruity mouth.

Léon Courville Vigneron Reserve Riesling 2019, SAQ code: 12542659, $28

Cave Spring Riesling Dry Niagara Peninsula 2019vsSAQ code: 14327039, $15.95

To please yourself

Originally from Romania, Zsombor Mezey is sommelier at the Château Frontenac in Quebec. Married to a Quebecer, he loves sugaring off. To accompany the richness of the bacon and the sausage, he suggests creating a “mirror” pairing, that is to marry the sweet and salty taste of the dish with a sweet wine. His favourite: a white wine from Hungary. “The texture of the local Furmint grape variety is exceptional! It also has great ‘drinkability’ and, with its affordable price, you don’t need to take out a mortgage to buy a bottle,” says Mezey.

The proof: this wine from the Hungarian castle Dereszla is sold for just over $15 and it has everything to please. Its aromas of clementine and apple blossom betray the addition of muscat in the blend. Made in volcanic soil, this wine has a tonic attack, followed by a pleasant roundness and its aromas are persistent. Its few grams of sugar will allow a smooth marriage with maple.

Château Dereszla Furmint Dry Tokaji 2020, SAQ code: 13479639, $15.95

Smoke tip

Smoked meat, including the traditional maple ham, is a must at the sugar shack. The sommelier of the Cabane du Pied de Cochon, Alexandre Meilleur, knows something about it. To wash down this classic dish, he suggests a light red based on Gamay or Pinot Noir. “We want to go for a fruity, drinkable, easy-to-drink wine. Beaujolais is the great champion! he says. In this region of France, the volcanic terroir often brings a smoky touch to the wines. The marriage thus becomes natural with smoked meat. At the Domaine du Vissoux, in Saint-Vérand, the winemaker Pierre-Marie Chermette cultivates a plot where volcanic soil, granite, is king. And the fruity aromas explode in the glass! Violet, cherry, raspberry, all these pretty flavors are found in a supple, juicy and elegant mouth.

Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Morello cherries 2020, SAQ code: 11259940, $19.60

With sun

Pairing baked beans with wine doesn’t seem natural to wine snobs. However, this sugar shack staple is at the heart of the themed brunch at Rosèlys, the chic restaurant at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in Montreal. His sommelier Raphaël Auran immediately suggests a Côtes-du-Rhône filled with sunshine and spicy notes with this rich dish. “The spicy side of the Syrah balances out the sugar in the dish,” he explains. While keeping lots of fruit. »

Good, cheap and organic, that’s what Paul Jaboulet Ainé offers with its Parallèle 45 cuvée. This blend mainly brings together Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Subtly full-bodied, the wine is filled with sweet spices and sun-kissed dark fruits from the south of France.

Paul Jaboulet Ainé Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45, SAQ code: 332304, $16.70

With bubbles

A cold Labatt 50 beer during syrup production is the fondest memory of maple producer and sommelier Pier-Alexis Soulière. Holder of the titles of best sommelier in Canada and Master sommelier, he is tempted by a little cold foam, but he appreciates sparkling wine even more with a sugar shack meal. “Champagne is the light beer of wine! he throws. It’s light in alcohol, it’s effervescent, it contrasts with the richness of the meal and it’s easy to drink. »

The Coquet cuvée from the Mestres estate in Spain will amaze you with ears of crisse and crêpes topped with syrup. His secret? Its aging of more than 36 months on lees brings subtle oxidative notes that create a natural harmony with maple flavors. Its saline finish evokes its terroir composed of limestone. Great, especially at this price.

Mestres Coquet Cava Gran Reserva 2015, SAQ code: 13944529, $25.95