Push open the door of the Umbrella, you will be sheltered from the gray and the gloom.
This charming new address in Mile End is sure to make you smile. And not just the customers: chef Robin Filteau-Boucher too, who realizes a dream, that of being the master of his own restaurant. “I wanted to work for myself,” explains simply the man who was until recently chef at the Théophile wine bar and who we also saw in the kitchens of the feu Gypsy, Hà and Chez Victoire, among others – and, yes, for fans of The Chiefs !he also appeared on the popular show several years ago.
And he does work. On site from morning to evening in the open kitchen and at the heart of the action, he prepares everything himself; fresh pasta sauces (except the bread which is from Boulangerie Louise), supported by sous chef Ariane Brien Chicoine. The menu, short and very pretty, varies according to your desires. You will definitely find what promises to be a house classic: egg mayonnaise with tarragon, served with plump pieces of poached lobster. We would come back just to dip our fork into this little cloud of flavors. There is always fresh pasta, another specialty of the chef, then plates featuring here trout from Les Bobines, semi-cooked, topped with “bagel” style seasoning, there a lamb from the Péchés Moutons farm that falls apart with a fork, without forgetting the hand-cut fries or an elegant panna cotta with honey and pollen for dessert.
PHOTO JOSIE DESMARAIS, THE PRESS
An overview of the Umbrella menu
To carry out this new adventure, in this small premises of around thirty seats on rue Beaubien Ouest, nicely refreshed with a fairly classic style which should stand the test of time (Ovi construction and Atelier Paradis for the design), the chef is associated with the maître d’hôtel Karelle Voyer, met at Théophile (another associate, Simon Chevalier, is also there). Residents of the neighborhood, the duo is happy to make a return with this project whose name is inspired by the song by Daniel Bélanger, Robin’s favorite.
Thirsty ? Karelle’s card is worth discovering. It focuses on discoveries, favorites and small arrivals rather than quantity, at decent prices. Expect its selection to change often. We also fell in love with the cocktails from Félix Pagé-Blouin, who works behind the bar. Here again, creation, spontaneity and homemade are on the program. No doubt, no gray clouds on the horizon at Parapluie!
Open Wednesday to Saturday
44, rue Beaubien West, Montreal
Visit the Umbrella website