This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
They are of all styles, of all sizes, of several origins, for all types of budgets. Yes, sandwiches are among the most universal dishes that can be found on our planet, and their ingredients reflect either the culinary culture of a country, or the creative signature of a chef, or… a happy mixture of all of this. So, as the temperatures rise and our desire to eat on the go increases just as much, on a picnic or not, we met the owners of three sandwich shops, each as passionate as the other.
“Who doesn’t like sandwiches? It’s a meal in itself, it’s affordable, it’s easy, it’s transportable, and there’s something for everyone, “says Samir Benzeguir, head of Capitaine Sandwich for six years. , in Montreal, but obsessed with sandwiches for much longer. “I have lost count of the Laughing Cow, American or merguez sandwiches that I have eaten since I was very young,” says the man who grew up in Quebec surrounded by a Russian mother and a Algerian father.
Daniel Lo Manto, chef and co-founder, with his mother, of the Bossa sandwich shop, which has three addresses in the metropolis, does he agree? ” Of course ! he answers. I ate Italian sandwiches prepared by my grandparents every day for lunch. This type of food is therefore an integral part of my life. »
Sandwiches and Italian culture
France has its ham and butter, Belgium its submachine gun, Spain its bocadillo. And Italy has its stuffed ciabattas and its paninis. “For my part, I have mostly known sandwiches that have only two or three quality ingredients: good fresh bread, prosciutto di Parma and mozzarella or burrata. Simple, effective and delicious all over the boot, it seems, including convenience stores along the highways.
Italian culture, however, is a traveler, and its traditional sandwiches have taken on the characteristics of the countries in which its diaspora has settled. As part of his family lives in Philadelphia, Daniel Lo Manto succumbed to Italian-American sandwiches, which he made the trademark of Bossa. “They also contain fresh ingredients, but in much greater numbers, and above all, they have many more layers,” explains the chef. The Italians would be satiated after two bites! »
Regardless, Quebecers appreciate these generous sandwiches, presented at Bossa in some twenty variations (eight for the location of the Time Out Market), including the popular Chicken Parm (with balsamic oil, mozzarella, parmesan and hot peppers) and homemade Porchetta (accompanied by provolone, aioli, coleslaw, caramelized onions, hot peppers and marinated eggplant).
Vietnam and its banh mi
Asia is no exception when it comes to sandwiches. In China, you can find donkey burgers. In Malaysia and Singapore, we enjoy kaya toast in the morning, a sweet spread that is dipped in eggs. But the most famous Asian sandwich remains the banh mi, heir to the French colonies in Vietnam in the 19th century.e century.
As Dan Pham, co-owner of Chom Chom – which means the tropical fruit rambutan in the Vietnamese language – confirms, “the settlers brought with them their culinary culture, including baguette, pâté, cheese. And the Vietnamese have adapted it to their own”.
The banh mi, which has become essential in the land of the dragon, also comes in a baguette, but which is made of rice flour, which makes it softer. As for its toppings, they are very diverse. “People can eat an egg-butter-sugar banh mi in the morning, then eat all kinds afterwards,” explains the restaurateur. At the base, there is liver pâté, cold meats, a little spice, and always cilantro and daikon carrots. »
Beautifully fresh and tasty thanks to the skilful blend of vegetables, fresh herbs, a protein (chicken, barbecue pork, tofu, shrimp) and a homemade fish sauce aioli, the banh mi du ChomChom honor the Vietnamese tradition, while being practical and easy to eat with one hand.
Cross inspirations
In a cosmopolitan city like Montreal, there are also creative sandwich shops, which do not hesitate to mix culinary cultures, techniques, and to think outside the box. This is the case of Captain Sandwich. A quick look at its menu, where you can find an Italian-style sandwich with polpette, another breakfast-style sandwich inside a nan bread, or even another Latin-style one with chicken, peppers jalapenos and ranch sauce, and we quickly understand that here, we travel through the taste buds.
“I’m not a chef by training, says Samir Benzeguir (he worked in a former life as a translator), but I love sandwiches, I do well in the kitchen and always wonder, looking at a dish, if it could be “sandwichable”. And does it work? “No, of course! Everything is theoretically possible, but in practice there is a lot of trial and error and tweaking. It’s constant work,” admits the restaurateur, who has nevertheless managed to come up with surprising seasonal sandwiches, such as Porc Noël with pig’s trotter ragout, as well as Killer Tomato, which contains heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. “When you try something and the magic sets in when you taste it, you’ve won,” he adds.
Captain Sandwich lacks neither ideas nor humor. And it is above all this kindness that he wants to bring to life for his clients. “With all the crises and the increase in the cost of living that we are experiencing, I believe that eating a good sandwich is affordable, tasty, creative, reassuring, it invites discovery and it doesn’t take too much time. serious. In short, it’s a perfect meal! We believe it without difficulty.
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the Duty, relating to marketing. The drafting of Duty did not take part.