This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
After nearly 10 years of research and trial and error, Anh and Tiên Nguyen can finally say they are ready to market the very first 100% local fish sauce. The initiative of these new Quebecers of Vietnamese origin took shape in the Maritimes in 2014, with the desire to promote the resources of Quebec territory.
The couple had no experience in the restaurant or food industry. “My husband is in IT and I am in taxation,” explains M.me Nguyen, who had never considered embarking on such a business. However, their Quebec fish sauce has been on the market since this fall, and the project is already set to expand.
It all started in 2014, during a trip to the Maritimes, where they visited the Mactaquac power station in New Brunswick. They found that NB Power infrastructure was preventing normal fish passage and causing a lot of damage. Hydroelectric dams considerably modify waterways and therefore the dynamics of aquatic species.
They were struck by the “waste” of these fish which died on site and which were directly transported to landfill sites to make fertilizer. Inspiration then came, accompanied by a desire to revalue food resources. “My first instinct was to say to my husband: ‘at home, we would make sauce with all this’,” says Mme Nguyen about this staple food in Vietnam.
If today, the fish used in the couple’s nuoc-mâm is a capelin from the St. Lawrence River, and not harvested near a hydroelectric dam, the original idea remains the same. It’s about showcasing local ingredients in a sustainable and eco-responsible way, in a product from their native country.
Long-term work
The two entrepreneurs began by testing the waters with an expert from the agri-food department of McGill University, who agreed to embark on studies, research and development of their project. “It took about eight years to arrive at a correct sauce,” says the businesswoman, since no knowledge existed on the subject in Quebec. “In the Atlantic and the Pacific, the fish species are different, as are the protein compositions,” she adds.
Among the partners in this quest for the perfect recipe, there is Pêcheries Charlevoix. The company uses the very old indigenous weir fishing technique. “ [M. et Mme Nguyen] came with us, and they saw how fish were caught. They liked the durability of the thing, the family aspect. They decided to use capelin in the development of their sauce at McGill University,” recalls Julie Gauthier, owner of Pêcheries Charlevoix. Each year, the company delivered about a hundred pounds of fish to allow the couple to continue their testing.
Throughout this large-scale work, they were motivated by a desire to enhance the wealth of Quebec. “The fish sauce on the market today is imported exclusively from Asia. We don’t know what’s inside or what species,” argues M.me Nguyen.
The product was finally presented for the first time in February 2023, at the Salon Fourchette bleue, which promotes the maritime resources of the St. Lawrence River. Although it was only available in very small quantities at the time, nuoc-mâm sauce nevertheless instantly seduced the public – and propelled its creators to unexpected success.
Efforts rewarded
Months after the Salon Fourchette bleue, Mme Gauthier is still approached by people who want to get the famous local fish sauce. The few bottles that were sold at the Pêcheries Charlevoix boutique were gone in the blink of an eye. “It was a huge success. I don’t know if they expected that, because for them it’s a staple food item. For us, it’s a more exotic product, but one that is now made with local ingredients. We are amazed to come up with a product like this! » she maintains.
Happy victims of this frenzy around its creation, the new Quebecois couple is currently working to make nuoc-mâm sauce accessible to a wider audience. With the help of the Saint-Hyacinthe Research and Development Center (CRD), they plan to increase production volumes, with all the facilities and equipment that this implies. It is also in the infrastructures of the CRD of Saint-Hyacinthe that the fish sauce is manufactured and bottled.
“We will try to meet everyone’s demand, but the company is still very small,” says M.me Nguyen. The products of their company, called KLKT, are currently available on site or online at Racines boréales, Chez Boulay Épicerie québécoise, at Pêcheries Charlevoix, at the Exploramer boutique and at Quai 33.
Cross the Pacific
Of Vietnamese origin, the couple arrived in Quebec at the end of the 1970s with the boat people. “We started our lives again here,” shares Mme Nguyen. With this fish sauce, they transport a bit of the flavors of their native Asia to the plates of their adopted land.
The businesswoman hopes that Quebecers will know how to make their Asian sauce their own in traditional cuisine. “You have to separate the nuoc-mâm sauce from fried rice or rolls, for example. It’s okay, I have nothing against these dishes, but we have to adapt the sauce to Quebec cuisine. Do not be afraid ! » she encourages. She unabashedly praises the versatility and delicious taste of this flavor-enhancing condiment. “We will be able to say that it is a mission accomplished when Quebecers put nuoc-mâm sauce in their pies! » exclaims the designer.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.