Chez Morasse’s poutine proclaims itself “the best in the world”. On that, it’s up to you to decide. The culinary institution of Rouyn-Noranda, in Abitibi, nevertheless remains the property of a couple from Benin for a year. The duty went to meet him to reveal the secret of his sauce and understand what is simmering in the heads of these entrepreneurs.
Sylviane Senou and Carlos Sodji are finally getting their heads above water, a little over a year after launching into business. “There, we understand why they sold,” says the latter, leaning on one of the tables in his establishment.
The couple from Benin took over the famous Chez Morasse canteen in spring 2022, open since 1969. Owned by the family of the same name since 1969, the chip shop was in its third generation when they decided to throw in the towel.
Carlos Sodji, who was already helping the family recruit international cooks, seized the business opportunity.
To make the dough rise again, he was going to rely on the neo-Rouynorandiens. This is the winning recipe, he insists. “If the foreign workers had not come, we would close. Or we had a heart attack. At the beginning we worked 20 hours a day. »
If the foreign workers had not come, we would close. Or we had a heart attack.
He lets his partner speak. She is the one who takes care of the kitchen, the menu and the staff. Employees born in Abitibi remain very valuable, underlines Sylviane Senou, but the newcomers have a heart in their stomach that she cannot ignore. “They want to work overtime,” is almost surprised by the restaurateur whose establishment closes certain days at 4 a.m. – a rarity in Quebec since the pandemic.
Six cooks from Togo, Ivory Coast and elsewhere in West Africa have been filling the brigade of around forty people for a year. Four others will come to help within a month.
However, the integration of these newcomers does not always go smoothly, says Sylviane Senou, herself trained in cooking. “When you come from Africa, you don’t know relish, let alone poutine,” she says matter-of-factly.
Don’t change anything, but add
The world of snacks is no stranger to the evolution of these classics. You can find Congolese-inspired mutton poutine in Montreal. The most discerning gourmets may have come across griot poutines, of Haitian inspiration. Or poutines with plantains to replace fries.
Chez Morasse customers have long been accustomed to these daring recipes. On its menu we find a “chicken curry” poutine, another with “fajitas” and even one with “general tao”. Some will even remember a certain gelato bar…
However, according to the new owners, “we don’t want to change anything”. “Many are already saying it looks like things have changed. But we never touched the recipes,” assures the chef. “Our suppliers remain the same. »
Many are already saying it looks like things have changed. But we never touched the recipes.
They still added a little seasoning to the pasta salad, the spaghetti sauce, perked up the chicken in the club sandwiches. Otherwise, they want to keep the traditional, somewhat timeless side of the place.
The new developments – because there will be some, we suspect – will arise from the couple’s second business. A catering service called “Les Saveurs du Sud” was recently opened in another building. The dining room should open soon, we promise. This other menu gives pride of place to Afro-Caribbean tastes, such as griot and sticky rice. These meals full of fried foods could well be added to the offerings at Chez Morasse in order to “satisfy everyone”. It’s not just newcomers who are asking for these fast food variants, “there are a lot of Quebecers who ask for that,” assures Sylviane Senou.
Will we one day see poutines with African sauce at Morasse? “We are in the trials,” she is content to say. “Christian [Morasse, l’ancien propriétaire] encourages us, but frankly we don’t know it. »
We are in the tests. Christian [Morasse, l’ancien propriétaire] encourages us, but frankly we don’t know it.
The Chez Morasse franchise
Easy to guess the potential of the company Chez Morasse. Customers are not a problem for a restaurant located opposite the local arena, next to a performance hall, and a stone’s throw from the bar area. “In the long term”, Chez Morasse could well become a franchise, reveals Carlos Sodji. “Of course we’re going to have to do it. »
Other ideas are simmering in the duo’s heads. Adding lunches is on the long to-do list. Reconnecting with certain classics, such as impromptu shows during the Emerging Music Festival, also remains on the menu. Hot in front!
This report is supported by the Local Journalism Initiative, funded by the Government of Canada