This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Let’s say it right away: it’s better not to overload your schedule when you choose to land on the largest island surrounded by fresh water in the world, located in the heart of the Great Lakes, in northern Ontario. To fully enjoy a stay on Manitoulin Island, embrace the famous ” island time specific to destinations where time is very relative remains the best strategy.
The rain was falling slowly but surely when we arrived at the edge of the Cup and Saucer trail, known for its exceptional viewpoints. Not enough, however, to prevent us from wearing out our boots. Our guide, he presumed otherwise: he did not show up for the meeting. Never mind, we storm the path with a smile on our lips, intoxicated by the smell of petrichor.
Once far from the roaring cars, the drumming of the rain accompanies our steps up to the rocky platform, promising exclamation marks and clichés instagrammable. On the horizon, however, there are no rows of lakes or towering cliffs as described by enthusiastic hikers on TripAdvisor: only a thick mist leaves room for the imagination. A vague impression of having the head – and the whole body – in the clouds, too.
The rain, which intensifies, cuts short my rantings. There’s no point in wiping my glasses for the hundredth time or believing in the effectiveness of my raincoat: my portholes are dripping and I’m soaked to the skin.
The rest of the trip will be like this first day: surprising and unpredictable, with all the good and bad sides that entails. Here, virtuality and reality are indeed two distinct worlds. Just because Google says a restaurant or art gallery is open doesn’t mean it will. On the other hand, we can come without reservation to the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation to learn how to make leather bracelets with the artist Darlene Bebonang, of an exemplary patience and kindness even with the bumbling in my like, feast on healthy take-out meals thanks to Prepped Manitoulin in Little Current, and meet a 21-year-old restaurateur, proud descendant of a family that has worked in the fishing industry for six generations in Gore Bay, with a view on the Haven. Avery Sheppard is getting ready to celebrate the third anniversary of Purvis Fish Chips.
Manitoulin 101
To understand the essence of Manitoulin Island, one must delve into the history of its first inhabitants. Ancestral territory of six Anishinabe nations — M’Chigeeng, Sheguiandah, Sheshegwaning, Aundeck Omni Kaning, Wiikwemkoong and Zhiibaahaasing — the island is inseparable from this mixture of cultures that neophytes may find difficult to distinguish. This is where Tourism Wiikwemkoong comes into play. Taking part in one of its excursions allows you to have some very welcome benchmarks for the future.
Since the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, Luke Wassegijig, director of the tourist office, has noticed a growing interest in the historical visit. As many groups of students as employees of the government or private companies take part in it to better understand Aboriginal issues. “During this visit, we explain the treaties, but also the royal proclamation. We’re talking about residential schools and clans, among other things. »
Sightseeing tours take place daily between May and October, including one by boat. The newest offers a guided hike on the Bebamikawe Trail along the Niagara Escarpment. The picking of forest ingredients spotted along the way is then used to prepare the traditional meal on the fire – if it is allowed to practice it at the time of your visit – which closes the adventure. It is also possible to walk the 14 km trail, where three panoramic lookouts overlook the North Channel and Georgian Bay, without a guide. A mobile app can be downloaded, and interpretive panels tell the story of the Anishinaabe.
Craftsmanship to bond
Inaugurated in 1974, the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation ensures the preservation of Aboriginal culture and languages. Citizens and tourists alike can stop here for a visit to the museum or a workshop with Darlene Bebonang. Learning about crafts is also a good way to get in touch with culture. No fixed price here, but the nonprofit accepts donations. “We offer different workshops,” explains the artist in front of a table filled with porcupine quills. We teach and learn together. »
Son of the Foundation’s founder, artist Steven Fox-Radulovich is also very involved in the community. He says that it was in the early 1970s, when professors wanted to integrate an Aboriginal studies program into the curriculum, that they realized that such a program did not exist. “The language was starting to die out,” says Fox-Radulovich. […] When the elders disappeared, knowledge left with them. The Anishinaabe culture, like other indigenous cultures, has an oral tradition. Audio and video recordings, especially made at pow-wows, have preserved their teachings.
As Darlene tries to fix my multiple mistakes as a designer of Sunday bracelets, Steven’s explanations about the construction of the building with rounded rooms, where the memory of the elders is now kept, come to mind. “It’s based on the four cardinal points. The entrance is always in the east, since sunrise is in the east, and sunset is in the west. […] The meetings take place in a circle because it is egalitarian, everyone has the same voice in a circle. It is also for unity. Also, when sitting in a circle, traditionally only one person speaks at a time. You need to continue the discussion from what the previous person said. »
In the circle of the main room is a hummingbird carved in stone. “Myths and legends consider it important because it brings rain, explains Steven, which allows growth. I conclude that it was he who had the last word the day I arrived on the island.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team of the Duty, relating to marketing. The drafting of Duty did not take part.