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Head for Corsica to discover a specialty protected by an appellation, brocciu. It can be eaten plain, savory or sweet, and the recipe is said to have been revealed to shepherds millennia ago.
In the middle of winter, the brocciu makes its appearance among the Corsican products on the Sarrola-Carcopino market (Corse-du-Sud). “It’s a fresh cheese. The tradition here is to eat it with a little sugar”, says a customer. Mireille Mamelli’s brocciu is made in Cauro (Corse-du-Sud), according to the rhythm of life of her 150 ewes. “You can’t find brocciu all year round, it’s not possible. There comes a time when these young girls, or her ladies, have babies in their wombs. And when they’re full, you can’t milk a sheep”she explains.
A matter of patience
In February, some lambs are already born. The shepherdess can harvest the milk at the beginning and end of the day. To prepare the brocciu, she collects the whey which she heats gently, and stirs without interruption. 45 minutes, then you have to add salt and whole milk, and let the mixture thicken. The cheese is then collected in strainers, and ready to be consumed. Barely drained, it challenges the restaurant owners of the island. Guillaume Bauneau, chef of the Auberge Napoléon in Cauro, prepares it in emulsion to accompany the figatellu, a liver sausage.