Lee So-yeon, a former fashion addict from South Korea, transformed her consumer habits after a low-cost down jacket led her to explore the harsh realities of fast fashion. Disturbed by the environmental and ethical implications, she abandoned her shopping spree and now champions second-hand clothing, emphasizing their unique stories. Despite her advocacy, societal stigma around pre-owned items persists in South Korea, where second-hand clothing is often viewed negatively, even as the country ranks fifth in global exports of such garments.
Transformation from Fashion Addict to Conscious Consumer
Lee So-yeon, a 30-year-old South Korean, once indulged in refreshing her wardrobe with new outfits five times a week. This habit continued until a modest down jacket priced under two dollars turned her fashion-driven world upside down and set her on a new path.
During her time working in the United States, Lee stumbled upon the coat at an H&M store and was struck by a simple yet profound question: How could this be possible?
As she delved into the world of fast fashion, characterized by rapid collection turnover, Lee began to uncover the hidden environmental and human costs that accompany such consumerism. She realized the detrimental effects on both the planet and the mental well-being of shopping enthusiasts.
“I used to purchase a new outfit every single day from Monday to Friday,” Lee shared with AFP, recalling that many of her pieces were often priced at less than a dollar. This realization led her to understand that such low prices come at the expense of miserable wages and a blatant disregard for environmental sustainability in the fashion industry.
Determined to make a change, Lee decided to cease her shopping spree. Six years later, she remains steadfast in her commitment, having completely distanced herself from fast fashion.
Today, her wardrobe is significantly smaller and primarily consists of second-hand items gifted by friends and family, including a cherished vintage leather jacket that belonged to her mother. Unlike fast-fashion items designed for quick disposal, these garments carry unique stories that make them irreplaceable, Lee asserts.
“Ultimately, the most eco-friendly clothes are those already hanging in your closet,” she concludes.
Breaking Free from Consumerism
Lee explains that liberating herself from the cycle of consumerism has alleviated the pressure to maintain a certain appearance. During her shopping addiction, the South Korean often felt stressed about choosing the perfect outfit for significant events.
“I was constantly aware of how others perceived me,” she recalled.
The tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh in 2013, which claimed over 1,130 lives—most of whom were young women working in the garment industry—served as a wake-up call for her. “These workers lost their lives making clothes for women like me,” Lee lamented.
Now, she actively organizes clothing exchanges with friends and family and has authored a book that encourages people to appreciate clothing for their history rather than chasing fleeting trends. Lee is part of a growing movement that advocates for second-hand fashion and aims to disrupt the cycle of overconsumption.
The Lucky Sweater app, founded by Tanya Dastyar, provides a platform for users to swap items from their wardrobes. “You can still be stylish, feel good, and look fabulous without purchasing new clothes,” she emphasizes.
The Challenge of Embracing Second-Hand Fashion in South Korea
The fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to pollution globally, accounting for approximately 10% of total greenhouse gas emissions linked to climate change, according to the World Bank. Modern clothing is predominantly made from synthetic materials like nylon and polyester, which are primarily plastic-based and non-biodegradable.
While critics acknowledge that opting for second-hand fashion can mitigate these harmful effects, many in South Korea express reluctance toward pre-owned items, often associated with financial hardship, notes Kim Dong-hyun, director of a second-hand clothing export company.
“People often hold a negative perception of wearing used clothes, viewing them as items that no one wants,” Kim states in an interview with AFP.
Interestingly, South Korea ranks as the fifth largest exporter of second-hand clothing globally, following the United States, China, the United Kingdom, and Germany, according to the Economic Diversification Observatory.
At Kim’s factory in Paju, located about thirty kilometers north of Seoul, AFP observed heaps of second-hand clothing stacked like refuse. These items are sorted by a mechanical claw before being shipped out. “Many people treat clothing collection bins as if they were trash cans,” Kim sighs.