They are chefs, market gardeners, fishermen, hunters, photographers or winegrowers. They are all immensely curious about the flavors of Quebec. The duty went to meet them to learn about their favourites, their recent discoveries and snoop a bit in their cooking and their memories! Today, an incursion into the gourmet universe of chef Isabelle Deschamps Plante.
On screen, you are associated with Ricardo and the show
The goal of the Pâtisserie du terroir program is to bring students to meet producers. And talking to the producers, I love that! We went to see, for example, haskaps. Understanding all the work that has to be done to harvest the little fruit helps to work the product well and to respect it. I find it really exciting as a program, because in addition to learning the basics of pastry, they learn a lot about the products and the passion of the producers.
You were born in Saint-Laurent-de-l’Île-d’Orléans. What your culinary world looked like when you were young ?
I lived surrounded by farmland. My mother made a huge garden with her two sisters. In the fall, we made the preserves, we sat down in the living room on a catalogne to shell all the peas and freeze them. I grew up there. When I was little, I couldn’t understand why I didn’t eat neon green relish! (Laughs) With my mom, if there was something I didn’t know at the grocery store, she would buy it. I remember my first mango! It was my mother who gave me the desire to eat well and to cook.
What dish or flavor changed your life? ?
Berries. Since I was young, I love strawberries and raspberries. I think it’s because I was born into it; I picked it up, I sold it, my mother made jam. I always look forward to berry season.
What is your Proust madeleine ?
The pies. Blueberry pie, apple pie, sugar pie… My mother made them with my aunt on the kitchen table. Strangely, it’s something I’m going to do at work, but not at home. When I go to Île d’Orléans, I go to the François Gosselin farm and I have pies, which are still made by grandmothers!
When did the Quebec terroir become important to you? ?
The products of the boreal forest and the importance of putting them on our plate, it really appeared when I became a pastry chef and started creating menus. For example, I use sweet clover instead of vanilla, and when we opened the Ricardo cafés, people asked a lot of questions [sur cette plante]. So we started selling it at the store. It’s not much, but it’s our role, in the restaurant business, to make the link between producers and consumers.
What does your kitchen look like ?
It’s a kitchen with a large island, two full freezers, a fridge and too many things in the pantry! My boyfriend tells me that we can’t buy any more stuff, because we don’t have any more space! The style is modern. The island is white, the walls are black, the cabinets are walnut. It’s very “velvet”. We have a mini-court that we make the most of. We planted edible flowers, fruit trees, and we set up an outdoor kitchen. No big deal there! A friend poured concrete counters for us, we built in our two barbecues; one charcoal and one propane. We also have a pizza oven and we have a sink. In summer, we cook outside every day. Summer is so short, we want to enjoy it. We also have a bar to receive friends for an aperitif. We stay out until they leave!
what is your speciality ?
People often ask me for desserts. When I participated in Chiefs!, I was classified as a pastry chef, but I am more of a cook than a pastry chef! I really like making pasta and risotto. My next trip will be to Italy!
What is the kitchen tool you can not do without ?
My Microplane grater! I’m a fan of zest, I put it everywhere.
And what is your essential ingredient ?
Maple syrup. I use it in salad dressings, with vegetables, for dessert.
Do you have a guilty pleasure ?
Bubble gum ice cream! The one that’s pink and blue with slightly worn erasers in it. I love that !
What is your recent discovery ?
The Flowers and Gifts restaurant [à Montréal] ; I find that fun the clash between the storefront and the decoration inside. I’ve been there twice and will be going back soon. The sea urchin mousse is crazy!
Do you have a favorite address to let us know? ?
Charlevoix mushrooms, in La Malbaie. Their pot of spicy oyster mushrooms, since we bought some, we’ve been hooked! As an aperitif, on a pizza or in pasta, oh la la! We visited their facilities, it’s really cool as a place.
If you took the road, you would go…
In Kamouraska. I have never been there. As much for going to see Marie-Fleur St-Pierre and Christian Bégin’s super grocery store as a taco stand that I saw on social networks. It’s buzzing around here. Rivière-du-Loup, eastern Quebec… I would go as far as the coastal canteen of Colombe St-Pierre.
Where would you like to sit right now ?
I would like to eat street food in Thailand. I like street food, I like Thai food. After Italy, this is my next destination!