This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Traditional territory of the Yelamu indigenous people, the northern San Francisco Peninsula has served as a military outpost for the Spanish Empire, the Mexican Republic, and the U.S. Army. A major revitalization has made it a national park that is increasingly popular with Franciscans and visitors alike. What if the Presidio was the perfect place to drop anchor?
On this sunny day, the silhouette of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge is easily visible on the horizon. From Presidio State Park, where soldiers have marched for more than 200 years, views of the bridge spanning the strait offer a different perspective of the city, far removed from the distressed images that make headlines. Plants carpet the once-concrete ground, and picnic areas have been set up. Looking out over the bay, passers-by take their seats in bright red Adirondack chairs.
Less than two years ago, there were no flowers on the landscape of Presidio Tunnel Tops, described as “the gateway to the Presidio, where adventures in the national park begin.” Major renovations have completely transformed the site. “We’ve had over two million visitors in a year and a half,” says Lisa Petrie, senior director of public relations for the Presidio Trust, which manages the urban park in partnership with the National Park Service and with support from the nonprofit Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. Below, hiking and biking trails wind along the former Crissy Field airstrip. The views of the bay and bridge are also spectacular.
A few steps away, restored buildings face a large green space dotted with lounge chairs—also bright red—with ultramodern designs. This is where you’ll find the very friendly Walt Disney Family Museum, which celebrates the man’s creative spirit rather than his famous theme parks. The visitor center, meanwhile, is housed in a former prison. “Everything you see is less than 30 years old,” says M.me Petrie: Before, there were just collapsed buildings and dumps. The streams were covered with concrete.
The magic of “Star Wars”
George Lucas was the first to believe in the potential of the sector when he renovated an old building in 1975 to make it the headquarters of Industrial Light & Magic, now owned by the Walt Disney Company. “This is where he made his films of the saga Star Wars ” says Lisa Petrie. In 1994, the military base was transformed into a national park. The Golden Gate National Recreation Area is now one of the largest urban parks in the world. The Presidio’s trails offer a nice change of scenery. One of them, a short drive from the visitor center, leads to Marshall Beach. The rental of the historic buildings converted into homes and workplaces helps fund the park’s maintenance.
A free shuttle takes passengers downtown from the Presidio Visitor Center. While it’s still nice to wander around Fisherman’s Wharf, where sea lions lounge on the docks, it’s when you get away from the hordes of tourists that you feel like you’re seeing the city’s soul emerge.
When it comes to getting around, there’s no shortage of (paid) options: MUNI, the public transit system, is considered the greenest in North America. “The bus lines that are powered by overhead wires are 100 percent electricity with no greenhouse gases,” says Charles Sheehan, director of policy and public affairs for the City of San Francisco. “If you get on that bus, you’re not producing any emissions.” […] The same goes for underground metro lines.
Mission District Murals
In the Mission District, a walking tour on the theme of urban art takes us back in time to the 1970s. Our guide, Renee Berger, tells us about her neighborhood through the committed works that cover its facades. Beyond the popular Balmy Alley, stories unfold recalling significant episodes in the area, such as the shooting death of a teenage couple in 1996. Near the place where they were shot, in Precita Park, a bench made from melted down firearms serves as a monument. Between denunciations and a duty to remember, the works of the Mission District bear witness to a profound desire for social justice.
If the famous “Painted Ladies” are closely linked to the gold rush, in 2024, San Francisco’s nuggets are undoubtedly found where you wouldn’t expect them.
The cost of this trip was paid by the San Francisco Travel Association, which had no say in the writing of this text.
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This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.