Restaurant review | The ultimate in comfort at Tsukuyomi

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Tsukuyomi ramen.

Iris Gagnon Paradise
The Press

Why talk about it?

In October, the first Ramen Ramen festival was held in the metropolis. About twenty addresses putting this popular Japanese dish in the spotlight took part. Even if the abnormally mild weather of the last few weeks is less inviting to taste this comforting dish, this event made us want to sit down in a restaurant where we have ordered many times during the pandemic: Tsukuyomi.

Who are they ?

Originally from Montreal, Devin Chen fell in love with Japanese cuisine after a trip to the land of the Rising Sun. In 2012, he opened, rue Saint-Denis, Kinoya Izakaya, a Japanese bistro that did not survive the pandemic. At the same time, he cherished the dream of creating a location where steaming bowls of noodles would be in the spotlight. He realized his wish in 2017, in Mile End, with the first Tsukuyomi counter. For the past two years, another address has been delighting downtown students and workers, near Concordia University. Since the beginning of the Tsukuyomi adventure, Devin has been supported by his sidekick and manager, Jackie Lieu.

Our experience

It was at the original Tsukuyomi, boulevard Saint-Laurent, that we landed on a beautiful Sunday. It’s quite early, so we avoid the wait—on our way out, a long line has formed on the sidewalk outside—and take a seat at a table at the back of the cramped room, packed with customers. Like many establishments of its kind, Tsukuyomi doesn’t take reservations (at least, at its Mile End address), but don’t let the wait put you off, the service is fast and it’s going full throttle.

The short menu offers a few sides that those who frequent izakayas will recognize: karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken), takoyaki (crispy octopus balls), edamame, seaweed salad, donburi (garnished rice bowl)… As a starter , we bit our teeth into the fried chicken, which was tender and juicy despite its very crispy exterior. The fried pork gyozas, while tasty, could also have been a bit more chewy. The goma salmon, raw and marinated in soy and sesame sauce, garnishing our little dish of donburi (rice simply seasoned with soy sauce), was silky and delicate.

But let’s be honest, the main attraction of a visit to Tsukuyomi is the delicious ramen.

Personally, we always take the original Tonkotsu Chatsu. There is a concentrate of happiness in there, the kind of dish you eat without ever getting tired. The secret is in the homemade pork bone broth, simmered for several hours, which gives it its milky appearance and strong taste. The place prides itself on adding no additives and using organic, non-GMO ingredients.

The ramen comes with various toppings: thin slices of braised pork, soy-marinated egg—absolutely divine, with its bright, runny yolk, but not too much—delicate kikurage (Japanese black mushrooms), nori seaweed and green shallots, not to mention the the place’s signature thin noodles, which are simmered daily by a third party for the restaurant. For those who want more heat, choose the version with a side of spicy miso. Together, all these elements make a tasty ramen soup.

Those who want to explore can order the Tonkotsu Chicken or Tofu, or the version with vegan noodles and soy broth, topped with vegetables (corn, tomatoes, shiitakes, spinach…) and tofu. But our heart will always belong to Chatsu!

In our glass

The Mile End branch is a high turnover counter. You don’t necessarily come here for a long dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine. There is also no wine here, but a few choices of sake bottles, hot sake on tap, and the essential Japanese beer Sapporo, served in pints or pitchers. Three very simple vodka-based cocktails — we took the Yuzu Shu, very tangy, but with a slightly diluted taste — are also on offer. Kids will love popping the ball of Ramune, a Japanese soft drink, and there is of course a small selection of Japanese tea (kocha, matcha or sencha). On Bishop, the selection of cocktails is more substantial, the place transforming into a bar in the evening.

Good to know

While the original Mile End address operates on a first-come, first-served basis, it is however possible to book at the downtown location.

Information

Tsukuyomi Mile End is open Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., and weekends, 12 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. The Bishop Street branch is open 7 days a week, from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

5207 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, Montreal