Restaurant review | The dog is aging well

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: a visit to Chien Fumant, well nestled on the Plateau Mont-Royal for nearly 15 years.

Why talk about it?

There are tons of new tables in Montreal! If the discovery of new gourmet proposals remains one of our favorite activities, returning to visit long-established restaurants is also part of the work of restaurant critics. So we went back to the Smoking Dog. Open since 2009 and recognized for its festive evenings, the establishment has modified its gastronomic offer since the return of the pandemic.

Who are they ?

The duo at the head of Le Chien Fumant is the same as on the first day: chef Maksim Morin, and his sidekick behind the bar, Nicolas Gamache. “When we opened the restaurant, at the time, we were 22, 23, we wanted to have the restaurant we were looking for: open late to party and eat after work. At first, we only served cocktails, we didn’t even have a wine list! recalls the chef-owner. The Smoking Dog is somewhat modeled on us, on our needs, and it has followed our evolution. Today, Maksim, who is there every evening like Nicolas, is no longer in the kitchen, because he wants to make room for a new generation. He continues to sign the menus, but when it’s time for the service, he enjoys walking around the dining room with a few products offered at the “pedestal table”, “my new fun”, he says, laughing.

Our experience

Saturday evening in February, the Plateau is buried under a layer of fresh snow that doesn’t seem to want to stop falling. Through the storm, Le Chien Fumant offers itself like a little cocoon with a cozy atmosphere and dimmed lights where my friend and I hasten to rush into.

Like their restaurant, the owners have aged, have calmed down and their tastes have evolved. Result: the once festive place where you could eat and drink until late now offers a renewed formula… with kitchens closing at 10 p.m.

We scan the menu quickly, on which one noble ingredient does not wait for the other – yet another novelty, requested by the clientele who have aged and also become more refined, it seems. Several choices of caviars from Maison Caviari, sea urchin, wagyu beef, veal chop, wild striped bass, black truffle… All divided into “small” and “larger” dishes drawing their inspiration as much from classic French cuisine (blanquette de veal, mustard duck) than in other cuisines around the world (chaat masala potatoes, pork belly donair, etc.).

No doubt those with a taste for luxury are spoiled for choice. But we remain a little perplexed: what to order and above all, how much? Fortunately, we quickly understand that the menu is more a starting point than an end in itself, when Nicolas strongly suggests that we let ourselves be tempted by the tasting menu, which can be adapted to our desires… and our budget.

On the menu for years, Korean-style beef tartare is a Dog classic, presented “bibimpap” style with its raw egg yolk in the centre. The waiter mixes in front of us strips of filet mignon (well seasoned) and its accompaniments (puffed rice, fried shallots, kimchi…). A beautiful play on textures, flavors punched : it’s a good start!

The strength of this table lies in the finesse of the execution and the quality of the products. We feel the experience in the kitchen behind each creation, even if the guideline of the menu is not 100% clear, apart from a certain taste for opulence.

The small dishes follow one another – often half-portions or even quarter-portions – all very well worked, without any real false note, but without surprising or captivating us. The wagyu beef micro-sandwich in its homemade milk bread with a little tangy sauce melts in the mouth; the avalanche of grated black truffles on our ricotta gnocchi is a pleasure that we enjoy with every bite; the plump Mexican shrimp with their white butter and tobiko eggs are well prepared, the flavors rather subtle.

Our favourite: the cheeses at the pedestal table, at the end of the meal, with a fairly refined selection, generally European: Lavort, a raw sheep’s milk from Savoie, Crémeux du Jura, Chabibou du Poitou… Fans will be served!

In our glass

We recommend starting the evening with a house cocktail. A few variations of gin and tonic or martini are on the program, as well as other classics and creations of the house. We chose the French 75 (with real champagne, please!) and the Paloma, balanced and satisfying. The wine list suits the style of the place well with bottles from established houses, especially from the Old World, and vintage wines. Again, by opting for the tasting menu, you can let the team choose to offer you wines by the glass to accompany your various services.

Price

You can’t call an evening at Le Chien Fumant affordable. Reading the menu will give some heart palpitations: Sea urchin & Clams ($45), Paccheri with razor clams ($50), A5 wagyu sandwich with caviar ($190)… all of which can be found in the “Small Dishes” section. Thus, we highly recommend the tasting menu, which starts at $100 per person. With this type of proposal, Le Chien Fumant is more of a place of destination, that we offer ourselves for a special occasion or to treat ourselves.

Good to know

Le Chien Fumant is probably not the place of choice for vegetarians (and even less so for vegans!), even if a few meatless options are offered. The place is cramped, but since it is located on the ground floor, it can accommodate people with reduced mobility.

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.

4710 De Lanaudière Street, Montreal