Why talk about it?
PHOTO PASCAL RATTHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
The Sep Lai is located in the old Machiavelli, in Pointe-Saint-Charles.
Because it’s absolutely delicious! “Laotian restaurants often disguise themselves as Thai restaurants,” notes Sep Lai co-owner Natassia Marier. Of course, the two countries are neighbors. Vietnam also shares a porous culinary border with Laos. But the restaurateur wanted to introduce some more typical and little-known dishes from her mother’s country of origin. This is what contributes to the gourmet wealth of the metropolis.
Who are they ?
PHOTO PASCAL RATTHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Natassia Marier is co-owner of the restaurant Sep Lai and Line Thongvan is the chef.
For ten years, Natassia Marier was chef at Machiavelli, a popular Franco-Italian restaurant in Pointe-Saint-Charles opened in 2006. After a spaghetti alla carbonara to take away too many, the young woman trained in French cuisine decided that it was time to move on. His Laotian roots called him. Against all expectations, her Machiavelli partners suggested that she carry out her project in the room she already occupied. Thus was born Sep Lai, at the end of June. In August, chef Line Thongvan came to lend a hand. The two women are delighted with their complementarity.
PHOTO PASCAL RATTHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Here, the second dining room of Sep Lai, with its very natural decoration
Our experience
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Imperial rolls are on the menu for lunch and dinner.
We took advantage of one of the last beautiful evenings of the dawning autumn on the very pretty terrace of Sep Lai. Now that the cooler weather has settled in, the interior has been furnished with counter seats in the windows and a few tables. The restaurant has three separate small dining rooms, one of which can be used as a private room. The main decorative elements are plants, which will multiply over time to create a “jungle” effect.
The menu is not final at Sep Lai. Chefs “Tass” (Natassia) and Line continue to perfect new dishes. These are, for the most part, very traditional, but others, like the Lao lunch burger or the mozzarella rolls, reveal the occasional desire for a freer interpretation of Laotian cuisine.
For now, papaya salad is still offered in two versions, Thai and Laotian, which differ mainly in seasoning. In Laos, padaek, a fermented fish sauce, is added. For a salad (meal this one) less common, the Yum Salat du midi deserves your attention. It is as fresh as it is nourishing, with its varied vegetables and spearmint, then protein with cooked egg white and a little ground pork. The vinaigrette is an emulsion of cooked egg yolk. Fried shallot and thin carrot sticks add crunch and comfort.
PHOTO PASCAL RATTHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Yum Salat is as fresh as it is nourishing, with its varied vegetables and spearmint. It is protein with cooked egg white and ground pork.
An original dish, sometimes also served at Thaï Sep on rue Jean-Talon, Nem khao tod is another salad-meal with many ingredients: crispy curry rice, egg, coconut, fermented pork sausage, fresh herbs, julienne of fresh ginger, peanuts and roasted peppers. It’s so full, aromatic, textured like a plate that we would eat it every day.
As for pure protein, it is possible to opt for the beef skewer with lemongrass, the homemade sausage or the chicken wings (or tofu) salt and pepper, in the form of small dishes that are shared well, like the whole of the menu elsewhere. You will have to come back to taste!
If they are less “typical”, desserts should not be ignored. The crème brûlée was flavored with pandan, when we visited, and it was flawlessly creamy. The pandan could be seen – very green in color – as much as it tasted, with its vanilla notes. How about the excellent flourless chocolate brownie served with homemade condensed milk and peanut ice cream? A signature dessert from Machiavelli that there was no question of removing from the menu. And that’s good.
In our glass
Sep Lai, like its predecessor Machiavelli, is a “bring your own wine” restaurant. Above all, choose a bottle – it can even be a good beer – that makes you happy, the pairing with a cuisine with such strong flavors is not always easy. Our aromatic blend of gewurztraminer and macerated pinot gris (orange wine), Christian Binner’s Si Rose (there is a little left over at the SAQ), was a perfect companion to the whole meal. The house offers a few alcohol-free options: jasmine tea, cold-brewed Vietnamese coffee, lemonade and other cocktails made from non-alcoholic “spirits”, such as the Quebec HP Juniper.
How much ?
At noon, soups, salads and combo plates cost between $ 14 and $ 18. There is also the possibility of smaller soups ($ 8) and rolls ($ 6 to $ 8). In the evening, more is done in the small meals to share formula and prices vary from $ 9 to $ 14.
PHOTO PASCAL RATTHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Located at the corner of Center and Charlevoix streets, on the ground floor, Sep Lai is easily accessible to people with reduced mobility.
Good to know
Vegan versions of multiple dishes are available. The options without wheat are also indicated. Located on the ground floor of a building at the corner of Center and Charlevoix streets, Sep Lai is easily accessible to people with reduced mobility.
Information
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There are some nice seats at the counter in the windows of Sep Lai.
Sep Lai is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
2601, rue Center, Montreal
Visit the Sep Lai website