Restaurant review | Paloma: the sweetness of the dove

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the less good ones, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Paloma, a beautiful story of parentage.

Eve Dumas
Press

Why talk about it?

Paloma. The name alone evokes warmth, gentleness, peace. In this case, he’s referring to a beach in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, right next to where the chef was born and where family picnics were held. At this time of year, you may be looking for a table that is a bit special, but not stuffy, to have a small pre-Christmas meal and get away from it all. same occasion. Paloma, open for a little over two years, lends itself particularly well.

Who are they ?

We can really speak of “house” when alluding to this restaurant founded by a father and his daughter (or by a daughter and her father, it depends!). Armand Forcherio has dedicated his career to Nice cuisine. At the Nizza restaurant, closed in 2010, its sunny dishes have earned it a loyal clientele. She was happy to rediscover the Franco-Italian flavors at Paloma – the chef had disappeared from the Montreal restaurant scene for a few years to become a private chef. Meanwhile, Rosalie Forcherio improved her knowledge of wine. She has worked in several fine Montreal restaurants, including Le Filet and Montreal Plaza, and spent time in France, in the vineyards and in Parisian restaurants. She likes to showcase the products of craftsmen who work with elegance and precision above all. Thanks to its two management heads, the two-generation house attracts a well-diversified clientele in terms of ages and backgrounds. This is to his credit.

Our experience

It was not our first meal at the Paloma, but rather the seventh or eighth, if we also count the aperitif box and the Christmas meal to take away from last year – fond memories of the pasta stuffed with truffles on this exceptional New Year’s Eve. , Moreover.

One Wednesday evening in mid-November, there was a very cozy and calm atmosphere in the slender dining room with around 30 seats. Rosalie was missing, but in her place, our waiter Antoine was attentive and with excellent advice. The kitchen offered its classics.

You can’t find veal brains on every street corner in Montreal. It was an opportunity to order some. Served crispy on the outside and creamy in the center, the giblet sprinkled with fleur de sel merged into the well buttered and lemony sauce. For amateurs, of course! Mezzalune di zucca, a staple of the menu at this time of year, are unmatched sweetness, marrying the small sweetness of the half-moon squash with the richness of the sauce.

We took advantage of the last fennels from the Les cultures necessary farm, served in two ways: raw, in a salad, then candied. A superb and soft piece of striped bass was placed in the center of this light and extremely simple plate. The other dish was a little more composed, with his two impeccable calamari stuffed with pork and veal, in a tomato sauce with a dash of Swiss chard. The small squids, which cut into beautiful, perfect slices, were exceptionally tender.

The signature dessert here is “marmoset,” a chocolate-hazelnut layered cake that was Rosalie’s favorite as a kid. As we have tasted it on numerous occasions, we opted instead for the Bourdaloue tart, another paragon of classicism, Parisian this time. Pears and almond cream lie on a delicate sweet paste.

We have the impression of eating at home, at the Paloma. A house whose cook is particularly gifted, of course, but a house all the same, which wants your good, your comfort, your little respite in the sun.

In our glass

We remember the opening of the Paloma, where the wine list had perhaps a score of references, all excellent, that said. Today, there are more than a hundred, in bubbles, in white, in rosé, in “orange” and in red! Rosalie has one of the best palaces in Montreal. She makes sure choices, but not necessarily serious or austere. On the contrary. There are wines in the gurgling festive register, essentials of the French and Italian “nature” movement, bottles for special occasions. A few chateaux vintages taken from the family reserve are also available. It is an impeccable menu, which unites the more adventurous young clientele and those who prefer tastes “true to the appellation”.

Good to know

Next week, the chef has access to exceptional truffles and he wants to share them with the clients of the Paloma. On December 16, 17 and 18, three “truffled” dishes – two pasta and one meat – will be added to the menu, while precious stocks are exhausted. Otherwise, vegetarians have a choice at Paloma. For people with reduced mobility, the simple fact that the toilets are in the basement makes it difficult.

Price

Entrees normally cost $ 14-20, and entrees $ 19-30. There are also “aperitif” proposals, like the chickpea flour socca chips with hummus ($ 10) and the cod acras ($ 12), and “sides” like the grilled radicchio with sauce. with Parmesan ($ 10) and basil artichokes ($ 11). As for the desserts, they will cost you $ 10 to $ 12. Rosalie manages to sell wines at around $ 40 in almost every “color,” and prices gradually increase to around $ 150, with a few chateaux wines at $ 200. There are also party magnums!

Information

The Paloma is open in the evening, from Wednesday to Saturday. Exceptionally, during this festive season, the restaurant will also serve a few lunches on Monday 20, Tuesday 21 and Wednesday 22 December. After the noon service on the 22nd, the team will take a little well-deserved vacation, until January 4 inclusively.

8521, boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montreal