Restaurant review | Moqueur: the bird makes its nest

Rising stars of the restaurant world, institutions that stand the test of time, hidden gems… our critics dive in and help you make informed choices. This week, we stop for a thirsty break on one of the most beautiful terraces in Montreal, at Moqueur.

You probably haven’t heard of Moqueur, but you may have heard of its predecessor, Agrikol, a restaurant specializing in Haitian cuisine that was made famous at the time by its famous co-owners Régine Chassagne and Win Butler, of Arcade Fire.

Chef Paul Toussaint left to open his restaurant Kamúy downtown, the place has been invested since last fall by another kind of cuisine, which also comes to us from the South: that of Louisiana. A project that we owe to the quartet of owners (Jean Philippe Bouchard, Alexandre Théberge, François Chamberland, Charles Landry) behind the popular Midway Tavern, downtown, and the Marion Tavern, in the Village.

But the two main reasons to visit this establishment in the Centre-Sud district are, first, its magnificent terrace, hidden at the back, and its excellent cocktail program.

The terrace, which is revealed as an oasis in the heart of the asphalt, is accessed by taking the small passage to the left of the restaurant entrance. You could believe they are two separate entities, each with its own personality. Not that the interior, which has a bar and a mezzanine, is not pretty, but undeniably, this terrace has a unique charm and atmosphere, with its checkerboard floor, its trees, its plants and its decor that transports us elsewhere.

We were there for an aperitif, one of the beautiful first days of May, but there is no doubt that the longer the hours, the more festive the atmosphere here. The clientele is mixed, rather young; tourists, groups of friends, couples, people of all kinds and styles mingle.

In front of the drinks menu, our hearts waver. The choice is vast and tempting. It’s hot, so I opt for a festive slushie: the Grand Margarita (tequila, Grand Marnier) with kiwi puree and passion fruit, an absolutely winning tropical blend. The lover cools off with a pisco sour whose pineapple acidity is enhanced by sea buckthorn. We are charmed.

This will be followed by one of the best dirty martinis I have ever had, thanks to the creaminess of a vodka. fat washed clarified butter and a mixture of celery, pepper and onion, as well as another creation, the Rumble Bee, a mixture of rum, coffee and spices featuring an “oleo-saccharum” of honey. This technique meaning “oil-sugar” dates back to the 19th century^e century and consists of extracting essential oils from citrus peels using sugar.

In short, there is inventiveness and creativity in abundance here. At least, on the liquid side. We would have liked to find the same dedication on the plate.

Moqueur is a bar first and foremost. The emphasis is on the experience, the atmosphere, the cocktail and wine menu (excellent selection of pet nat, by the way), and less on the food. But today, any bar worthy of the name offers a few items to sustain its customers. It’s a great opportunity to stand out.

The most disappointing was the po-boy sandwich, a kind of submarine originally from Louisiana; we had opted for the one with beef shoulder au jus. The baguette, ordinary, became soggy in less than two from the sauce filling. The flavors were bland. We passed.

Here are some preparations with “blackened” sauce. Different from Cajun spices, this Louisiana spice blend (paprika, chili, cumin, thyme, pepper, etc.) is used to season proteins, then grilled over high heat. The shrimp prepared in this way were correct, but the explosion of flavors sought was not there.

Among the goodies: ultra-crispy julienne fries cooked in duck fat with Cajun spices and truffle mayo. A little decadence. The fried chicken, very satisfying and crispy, with its Creole-spiced mayo. The idea of ​​a rock crab gratin was appealing, but the result, a little gross.

Oh, and let’s not forget the homemade hot sauces; they bring you an incredible variety of varying heat levels in a small basket. I’ve rarely seen so many in one establishment, and they are honestly incredible!

In short, there is room for improvement in terms of food, but I think a little adjustment and a few tweaks could make a big difference. In the meantime, I will happily return to be surprised by the creativity of the mixologists.

Price

Fresh, gratinated oysters are on the menu; about $20 for six and just over $35 for 12. Po-boy sandwiches range from $21 to $28. Shareable plates range from $12 for fries to $23 for shrimp. Cocktails are around $15, and wines by the glass start at $12.

Good to know

You can book, but not on the terrace; it’s first come, first served. The terrace is accessible to people with reduced mobility, but not the toilets, which are upstairs. The Moqueur team has just opened Chez Miller, a sports and karaoke bar next door, in the former Petit Agrikol!

Information

Open Tuesday to Thursday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., then Saturdays and Sundays from 5 p.m. to midnight. Minors are allowed on the terrace, but not inside.

1844 Atateken Street, Montreal

Visit the Moqueur website