This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
An eco-responsible purchase starts with the promotion of local products. We are fortunate that the Quebec vineyard is booming and that the offer continues to grow. This dynamism is the fruit of those who had the vision and the courage to write the first pages of our wine history.
Resilience
In the early 1980s, faced with the economic crisis, a large number of winegrowers from the south of France settled in South America and California. Charles-Henri De Coussergues, for his part, chose Dunham as his promised land.
In 1982, when De Coussergues planted his first vines to create L’Orpailleur, he saw a world of possibilities and wanted to develop wine tourism. But he encountered skepticism and the outdated law of 1921, which prohibited farmers from processing their harvest and selling directly. When his first vintage was released in 1985, he sold his bottles illegally to visitors. Thanks to his activism and the help of journalists, the laws changed and he obtained an artisanal permit in 1986. It would take another 10 years for winemakers to be able to sell to restaurateurs.
Charles-Henri’s success is due as much to his know-how as to his resilience. By choosing French hybrids that are resistant to extreme cold, such as Seyval and Vidal, and protecting them underground during the winter, he ensures the survival of the vines. He has thus founded a sustainable vineyard, succeeding where many had failed.
A second wind
Other winemakers followed this momentum and contributed decisively to the evolution of the Quebec vineyard. In April 2000, Véronique Hupin and Michael Marler founded Les Pervenches in Farnham with ambitious goals, revolutionizing the wine landscape in turn. Inspired by meetings with renowned producers, they advocated grape varieties from vitis vinifera such as chardonnay and pinot noir in favor of hybrids to maximize the quality of the wines. They adopted organic viticulture and biodynamics and became the first in Quebec to obtain both certifications. The transformation also takes place in the winery. A visit to Marcel Lapierre, a major Beaujolais producer, motivated them to make non-deviant natural wine. In turn, Hupin and Marler pushed the limits of what was possible.
Dare to be yourself
Winemaking success also depends on the ability to create wines adapted to its climate and terroir, as Ève Rainville and Marc Théberge do at Domaine Bergeville. Inspired by the sparkling wines emerging in England in the early 2000s and seeing a parallel with the Quebec climate, they settled in 2008 in the Appalachian highlands after research confirming the potential of sparkling wine in Quebec. They focus on hybrid grape varieties and biodynamics, devoting themselves exclusively to the production of sparkling wine made using the traditional method. Their success has encouraged several winemakers to make bubbles.
Our wine history is in full swing. While the next generation is inspired by the pioneers, the new generation promises to leave its own mark on our vineyard. The theme of the next post will focus on these new talents. In the meantime, here are three bottles worthy of the Quebec terroir.
L’Orpailleur Brut, IGP Quebec Wine
It was the parents of Champagne trainees who encouraged Charles-Henri to make sparkling wine in 1991 using the traditional method, which is the highest quality. The result is conclusive! Composed of equal parts Seyval and Vidal, this wine is full of character. Generous notes of red apple and brioche round out the high acidity, and the dosage of 5 g/L is completely integrated. Perfect as an aperitif with gougères.
$31.00 – SAQ code 12685625
Les Pervenches Le Couchant, Chardonnay 2023, product of Quebec
Great craftsmanship and 33-year-old vines result in a mature wine. Notes of green apple and lime harmonize with subtle hints of toast, and the saline finish is full of vitality. Straightforward without being angular, with a lovely mid-palate substance and chalky texture. A delight with delicate, simply prepared white fish.
$39.67 – In several delicatessens such as Hamel et Pascal le boucher or on the Pervenches website.
Domaine Bergeville, the 2022 white, IGP Quebec wine
Domaine Bergeville wines brilliantly express the Nordic nature of Quebec. Marked by a biting but not aggressive acidity, the white offers a lovely profile where aromas of lime, Meyer lemon and white flower mingle with notes of toast. The bubbles are fine and elegant, and the mouth finishes with a lovely creamy texture. A natural choice to accompany oysters.
$31.50 – SAQ code 13374562
This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.