The gourmets of the metropolis are familiar with Jellyfish, a restaurant established seven years ago in Old Montreal and whose sophisticated menu is signed by the talented young chef Mathieu Masson-Duceppe.
Posted at 11:00 a.m.
We can now discover another aspect of his creativity at Pubjelly, which he leads with experienced restaurateur Francis Rodrigue (Jellyfish, Madame Thai, Giulietta, Magia) as well as Robbie Pesut and Charles Mary, both involved in Jellyfish.
It was at the heart of the pandemic that the opportunity arose to take over the premises adjoining the Jellyfish, previously occupied by La Pizzaiolle. “Life is good, to find yourself close by… We immediately liked the idea,” says the chef. The place has been reworked to make it more refined and welcoming, but some original elements of the decor signed at the time by Zébulon Perron have been retained, including the central bar and the light strips on the walls.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The chef plans to offer several homemade fish charcuteries. Here, an amazing smoked tuna pastrami, with marinated summer vegetables and homemade sour cream.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
Chef Mathieu Masson-Duceppe, with Charles Mary, co-owner
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The chef offers Roman al taglio pizzas, like this one, with sausages and roasted broccoli.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The former location of La Pizzaiole has been transformed, but some elements of Zébulon Perron’s original design have been retained, including the light strips on the walls and the central bar.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
Honey-Miso Roasted Round Carrots with Burnt Leek Whipped Ricotta and Dukkha
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The Pubjelly location is next to the Jellyfish location, at the intersection of McGill and Marguerite-d’Youville streets.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The wine list offers several natural wines.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
A plate of burrata with avocado, squash, pistachio pesto and basil
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“We really wanted to offer a different concept to attract another type of clientele. The Pubjelly is the little brother of the Jellyfish. I see him a bit like the tiresome little brother! The music is louder, the atmosphere less hushed, the menu shorter,” explains the chef.
At this table, which aims to be more relaxed than its big brother, the sharing formula is strongly encouraged. We order, at will, platters of fresh oysters, arriving from the Maritimes, the Magdalen Islands or the American east coast, a selection of small dishes featuring vegetables worked with ingenuity (cabbage, flower tempura and its tapenade of burnt green onions, roasted carrots with honey and miso with its whipped ricotta with burnt leek and roasted dukkha in the oven…) and signature fish and seafood charcuterie, like this amazing plate smoked bluefin tuna pastrami and marinated summer vegetables, currently on the menu.
The team also inherited the “Cadillac pizza oven” from the old restaurant. Even if the chef didn’t want to open a pizzeria, he ended up getting caught up in the game. “I really didn’t want to make round pizzas, but pizza al taglio was very different and new to me. Dough is probably the most difficult thing to create in my entire career. I had nightmares! “says the one who ended up seeking help from the chef of the Giulietta, Erik Mandracchia, to refine his recipe, which takes three days to make. And a bit like at Jellyfish, charcoal cooking is put forward. The oven is also used in a thousand and one ways: to roast the nuts of his dukkah, roast his carrots or even burn his leeks which will be mixed with his ricotta.
“Pubjelly is a whole. The goal is to constantly revive, to flourish, to work with the Quebec product and to make us happy too. Often, as a restaurateur, we work for others, but after nearly 20 years of cooking, we know that if we are happy, people will be happy too! “, philosophizes the 31-year-old chef. Despite his young age, he has accumulated solid experience, whether at tables in Montreal (Magia) or elsewhere in the world (Mexico, Dominican Republic, Cuba, Italy, Bahamas, etc.). Recently, he was consultant chef for the opening of Club Med Charlevoix, and also opened a bakery in Kingston…in Jamaica!
600 Marguerite-d’Youville Street, Montreal