Portuguese | Catch the waves in Ericeira

(Ericeira, Portugal) In 2011, Ericeira became the second place on the planet named world surfing reserve. A recognition – the only one in Europe – which has turned the destiny of this peaceful fishing village upside down, making it a popular destination for those who travel the world in search of the most beautiful waves. Here they are served!

To get to Ericeira from Lisbon, just catch the bus at the station in the Lisbon capital (or rent a car). After an hour and a half of admiring the landscape of a hilly road that crisscrosses the continent, we arrive in this village on the Atlantic coast which has experienced incredible growth since its accession to the ultimate in the world of surfing: its nomination to the title of World Surfing Reserve by World Surfing Reserves (WSR).

Since 2009, this program set up by the Save the Waves coalition has given itself the mission of protecting the planet’s surfing ecosystems. To date, only 12 places offering surfers “exceptional waves” can claim to be among them, including Bahià de Todos Santos (Mexico), Gold Coast (Australia), Huanchaco (Peru), Malibu (California)… and Ericeira, the only reserve on the European continent.

With its eight kilometers of coastline, dotted with many surf areas for all levels, Ericeira has been attracting surfers for a long time. From the 1970s, the small fishing village became the destination for Portuguese surfers. But with this nomination, the peaceful place dominated by rocky cliffs offering magnificent views of small bays dotted with secluded beaches has achieved worldwide notoriety.

Discovering for the first time the Praia da Baleia, the beach closest to the village, my heart capsizes: the view is breathtaking. And you don’t have to be a wave addict to fall in love with Ericeira. But obviously, I wasn’t going to get around that far without getting a little wet…

At the water !

“Ericeira was very different 10 years ago. 20 years ago ? You can’t even imagine! Joaquim Pipio knows what he’s talking about: he was born here. He founded in 2016 with his two friends João Pontinha and Pedro Kikas, also from the area, 3 Surfers, one of the many surf schools in Ericeira – there are currently more than 40. Needless to say, the popularity of the place attracts in its wake many companies that smell good business.

“No doubt, all this development has been very good for Ericeira, which was just a tiny fishing village. But when it’s too much, it’s too much! We shouldn’t lose our authenticity, ”adds the one everyone calls Pipio.

“The city has experienced a big boom since 2011. But before being a place popular with tourists, there were locals who came here. And the local legends are those guys! Everyone knows them,” says Carla Almeida, who takes care of the marketing of 3 Surfers.

In short, I fell well to learn to surf in Ericeira. As I haven’t been on a board for a good decade, I stick to a class for beginners, with a few other travelers passing through: a German and three Swiss, who have already done a few classes with 3 Surfers since they arrived in Ericeira a few days ago.

João, who will be our teacher today, takes us to Praio do Matadouro, a place suited to our talent… yet to be proven. September is drawing to a close, and the waters of the Atlantic are bitterly cold. Fortunately, wetsuit and slippers protect us. After some instructions and stretches, it’s time to face the waves, even more intimidating up close. Even at the start of the low season, there is a horde of surfers and instructors in the water. At least each school has its “territory”. “Sometimes, in summer, it’s hard to see the color of the ocean, there are so many people! remarks João, according to whom the best times to visit Ericeira are spring and autumn.

One by one, we rush forward, trying to get up on the board and slide for a few seconds in a standing position. João provides valuable advice each time. The tide is rising and the waves are getting fiercer. The power of the ocean is incredible, and despite the cold, I’m warm from fighting the current and the waves, which push me backward every time I try to catch another wave. A little last, and it’s time to get out of the water. I contemplate the ocean and its wild force. And I understand even better why Ericeira has become one of the most popular surfing destinations on the planet… and steals hearts along the way.