(Paris) The last day of Paris Women’s Fashion Week ends on Tuesday with an acceleration of fashion shows, from Chanel, Lacoste, Miu Miu, Vuitton and Coperni’s big party of trendies at Disneyland Paris.
This celebration of the fashionable brand of the duo Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer invites the entire global caravan of fashionistas for a “magical moment”, a first in any case in this unusual place.
Seeing itself stealing the show from the fence, Louis Vuitton has reinvested the square courtyard of the Louvre.
In an entirely black setting, under the eye of Cate Blanchett, Brigitte Macron or Noémie Merlant, the facetiousness is not totally absent with drapes which wrap around one leg and reveal another while, further away, golden straps form a twirling skirt.
The flat princess slippers, seen often this season, return to the floor in branded trunks, the brand’s manna. Sporty and active, the Louis Vuitton woman also doesn’t mind wearing bikers under loose blouses.
At Lacoste, a chromatic explosion, with a dominance of the famous crocodile green, for sporty and very fashionable looks.
Cage of crazy rumors
PHOTO BERTRAND GUAY, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
The chiffon capes, slit skirts, transparent embroidered shirt dresses, wide and flowing pants, like the pastel knit, contrast the heavier Chanel tweed, despite its softened summer tones in pinks, cream and baby blue.
Chanel, for its part, returned to the Grand Palais in Paris, after four years of closure, for a summer ready-to-wear show designed by the teams, pending the appointment of the future artistic direction.
The moment, closely scrutinized in a troubled period, was thought of as a “flight”, explains a press release from the house.
The highlight of this show, not necessarily stylistically revolutionary, is the actress Riley Keough, the granddaughter of Elvis Presley, who comes to sing in the middle of the cage.
Like in an aviary, nearly 2,200 guests snorted among the celebrities: Vanessa Paradis, the Korean star Jennie, Angèle and Sébastien Tellier.
This cage was also buzzing with the wildest rumors about the appointment of a future artistic director for Chanel, which suddenly lost Virginie Viard in June.
Questioned by AFP before the show, the director of Chanel’s fashion activities, Bruno Pavlovsky, maintained that an announcement was possible by the end of the year. “You must not hold yourself to the sword or be forced. And I think the strength of the brand is being able to take your time,” he says.
“An artistic director is fundamental. This is what constantly allows us to progress to have these little extra things which will make us even more in tune with the times,” he adds.
“Karl period”
PHOTO BERTRAND GUAY, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE ARCHIVES
Karl Lagerfeld in 2018
After 40 years of the “Lagerfeld era”, with Karl then his right-hand man Virginie Viard, the question was asked to the boss of Chanel about the advent of a new era, while the brand was selling, but also suffering from a stagnant image.
“There it will necessarily be someone different who will not have lived through that period, even if this person probably knows it very well because many people in fashion observed or grew up with this Karl period.”
Rumors are swirling about his replacement: Tom Ford, John Galliano, Jacquemus, Carine Roitfeld and Hedi Slimane are among the most mentioned.
In the meantime, Chanel studios are taking over the interim. After an acclaimed first haute couture collection this summer at the Opéra Garnier, ready-to-wear received a more lukewarm reception.
The chiffon capes, slit skirts, transparent embroidered shirt dresses, wide and flowing pants, like the pastel knit, contrast with the heavier Chanel tweed, despite its softened summer tones in pinks, cream and baby blue.
The house’s key pieces are there, without any notable fantasy: from the little black dress to the tweed and jersey suit, including the quilted bag and the two-tone shoe.