Old Montreal | Dorsia’s Refined Retro

We’re diving into the 1980s at the new Dorsia restaurant. But there’s nothing cheesy here, the Old Montreal establishment offers an elegant atmosphere, attentive service and dishes expertly crafted by chef Miles Pundsack-Poe.

The group WITH Hospitality (Ryu, Ayla, Sushi Dept and Livia) is behind the new address on Notre-Dame Street West. “We wanted to bring the new ‘fine dining’ to Montreal,” says operations director Jason Lamarre. The space reflects the group’s choice: an impressive light fixture welcomes guests, and the decor, designed in collaboration with Ivy Studio, incorporates mirrors, marble and sleek banquettes. The experience is even enhanced by the uniformed servers, offering courteous and warm service.

Ontario chef Miles Pundsack-Poe, who recently moved to Montreal to raise his family, draws inspiration from French cuisine and the philosophy of Italian cooking—“having very fresh, seasonal produce,” he says—for the menu. He also brings to the table all the expertise he’s learned during his career in Michelin-starred kitchens (Ensue, in China, and The Restaurant at Meadowood, in California).

The à la carte menu is tempting, with a choice of starters, main courses – pasta, in particular – and sharing plates, not to mention desserts. The chef plays with his various influences and local produce. The Caesar salad, well seasoned with anchovies, sits alongside a plate of lightly poached Digby scallops accompanied by sorrel, celery and apples. The lobster is worth a detour here. It is prepared in two ways: in cappelletti, with sabayon and saffron oil, and as a sharing plate, whole with a pepper sauce and accompanied by dauphine potatoes. Also not to be missed is the duck crown, served with sea buckthorn berries and Jerusalem artichokes, a signature dish of the chef that he will evolve with the seasons.

Fancy a sweet finale? Pastry chef Camila Takahashi has concocted an inviting dessert menu. Let yourself be tempted by the cashew, mango and passion fruit mille-feuille or the elderberry meringue with rhubarb granita.

As for cocktails, the classics are king, with martinis and their various variations at the forefront. “We want to make cocktails well and respect the products,” emphasizes bartender Louis-Philippe Laforest. The bar’s digestifs are also well-deserved. The wine list, put together by the group’s sommelier, Reynald Belkacem, leans toward French vineyards and will delight wine lovers.

Dorsia hopes to attract a diverse clientele: families, friends, couples looking for a gourmet meal, those celebrating a special occasion and even local workers. The restaurant, which will open its doors at noon starting in August, hopes to become a favorite spot for business lunches. The establishment also inaugurated Bowie in early September, a restaurant-lounge that will be located in the basement of the restaurant. More festive, the place will serve cocktails and a classic American menu (sliderslobster roll) while embracing the refined side of the place.

396 Notre-Dame Street West, Montreal

Visit the Dorsia website