(Milan) After five intense days of fashion shows and presentations, the curtain fell on Tuesday for Men’s Fashion Week in Milan.
A look back at this week’s major trends, which lifted the veil on the spring-summer 2024 collections of the big brands.
Long live the shorts suit
Gone is the traditional pants-jacket suit, make way for shorts matched with a loose double-breasted blazer or a fitted jacket worn with or without a tie. Valentino loves them and offers them in cotton or leather, loose or close-fitting, but always elegant.
Prada presents refined shorts with darts and a perfect cut, while Billionaire prefers them in Hawaii mode, adorned with palm trees, just to escape from the gray everyday life. The Indian brand Dhruv Kapoor dares an ultra-short version in black cotton or denim, with visible zip.
Giorgio Armani, 88, played the spoilsport by decreeing that “bermuda shorts involve being on the beach or out and about for the holidays, and above all you have to have beautiful legs! In the meantime, shorts are for sport, and that’s it.
Mini-skirt, maxi effect
PHOTO ANDREAS SOLARO, FRANCE-PRESSE AGENCY
At Dhruv Kapoor, we find a full skirt modestly covering the knees or worn over trousers, paired with flat sandals and an ultra-long belt whose straps graze the floor.
For the more adventurous, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy offers a sparkling blue mini-skirt with a flashy belt revealing hairy legs, also suitable for XXL sizes. Another option, a low-waisted fluorescent green tutu revealing part of the slip, red in this case.
At Dhruv Kapoor, a loose skirt modestly covering the knees or worn over trousers, paired with flat sandals and an ultra-long belt whose straps skim the ground.
The Fendi man, who shunned the Milanese catwalks to parade in his leather goods near Florence, sported a work kilt in the form of an ultra-short skirt in brown or greige leather to put on over pants or shorts.
The tie, the return
PHOTO ANDREAS SOLARO, FRANCE-PRESSE AGENCY
At Dolce & Gabbana, the tie is fine and discreet, style vintage from the 50s.
Elegance and refinement oblige, the tie has made a comeback during Milan fashion shows. At Dolce & Gabbana, it is fine and discreet, style vintage from the 50s.
Valentino innovated by presenting a gray wool sweater with an incorporated and almost imperceptible tie, like a lavallière.
At Armani and Fendi, the man prefers the scarf tied around the neck, a sign of casual chic.
swagger
PHOTO ANDREAS SOLARO, FRANCE-PRESSE AGENCY
Vests are worn next to the skin, including at the very classic Armani.
“Cover this torso that I can’t see”… the man will only ask to defy this ban next summer, encouraged by many creators.
Vests are worn next to the skin, including at the very classic Armani, and the Dsquared2 man parades bare-chested, in frayed jeans, without giving up his pearl necklace.
The male from Etro dons colorful poncho-style capes leaving his chest and navel exposed.
At Dolce & Gabbana, the shirts and tunics are translucent, even transparent, as are certain pants that reveal the legs.
Never without my bag
PHOTO CLAUDIA GRECO, REUTERS
Handbags in black, yellow, apple green or bright red, tiny or bulky, discreet or flashy… the Valentino man doesn’t hesitate to wear an accessory borrowed from the women’s wardrobe.
Handbags in black, yellow, apple green or bright red, tiny or bulky, discreet or flashy… the Valentino man doesn’t hesitate to wear an accessory borrowed from the women’s wardrobe.
The bag adorned with the essential FF logo is ubiquitous at Fendi, ranging from a woven basket to a trompe-l’oeil toolbox. Its iconic “Baguette” bag has also been brought up to date.
Prada highlights its leather bags, “unexpectedly soft to the touch”, available in black, grey, khaki, red or even purple.