This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Each year, we celebrate the expertise and creativity of Quebec artisan cheesemakers through several competitions. But what about the last link in the chain, namely the retailer who selects their products, promotes them and talks about them with bright eyes? Less valued than other food professions, that of cheese merchant deserves to be better known. So, let’s welcome the arrival at the Canadian International Food Show (SIAL) of the first Canadian competition of its kind open to the public, and take a look behind the scenes.
It may seem surprising that Quebec today constitutes a reference in North America for cheese. But the part of this industry that we are most familiar with has not, until now, been more in the spotlight. “Producers, processors, merchants… They are humans at all stages. We must not forget it,” underlines Yannick Achim, owner of the Yannick Fromagerie banner and initiator of the biennial competition for the best Canadian cheese merchant 2024, which will take place on May 15 live from SIAL in Montreal.
Cheeses have been this merchant’s life for many years. He recognized its value from his childhood, when he went to help a farmer next to his parents. Then, he made it his profession and even represented Canada several times as organizer of the little-known Canadian component, at the Mondial du fromage, the final of which is held annually in Tours or in Paris, France.
“We often underestimate the cheese merchant,” he explains. We don’t produce cheese, of course, but we bring pride to these products. Cheese merchants are passionate, committed and rigorous people. I am therefore delighted that SIAL is hosting this competition and showing everyone the seriousness of this profession. »
Among the cream of the crop
Behind the counter of her Fromagerie Anne et Frères, located in the Montreal Villeray district, co-owner Anne Gauvreau-Sybille is feverish. In a few days, she will face five candidates selected from one end of Canada to the other in several tough tests. “It’s already an honor to have been chosen among so many others,” admits the former electrical engineer, who turned her back on this first career to realize her cheese-making dream. “This job allows me to exploit my sensory, poetic and artisanal side. I feel surrounded by cheese myself. »
What exactly will she face during the competition? “Four solid events, which will take place in a quadrangle of the SIAL which will be visible to all visitors and curious people,” answers Yannick Hakim. The first stage, the most spectacular for the public, it seems, is that of the cheese platter. In the space of an hour, competitors will have to cut, sculpt, identify and display on a special support 20 goat, sheep, cow and buffalo cheeses, including 10 Canadian cheeses. “It’s a masterful way to demonstrate your knowledge, expertise and artistic talent on a theme. This year, it will be that of the cities of the world,” says Mr. Hakim.
During the second test, the competitors will have three minutes each to convince the competition jury that the cheese they will give them to taste is the best. “This is what I do every day and I love it!” says Anne Gauvreau-Sybille. Telling people about cheese, introducing people to it, being an ambassador for a producer and a terroir, it’s wonderful. »
However, will she be as confident during the third test, consisting of a blind tasting of five cheeses that will have to be identified? It’s not as simple as it sounds, Mr. Hakim confirms, because they are presented in such a way as to be unrecognizable. As for the fourth and final stage, where the competitors will have to complete a theoretical questionnaire, the president of the competition has some surprises in store for them.
A springboard for the world
While waiting for the big day, Anne Gauvreau-Sybille is working hard to be ready whenever the moment comes. “I read and blind test a lot of products, I select my cheeses for the platter and practice cutting and presenting them in real conditions,” she confides. In short, I do my best, that way I will have no regrets. »
It must be said that the game is worth the effort. The winner of the Canadian competition will benefit, in addition to a trophy and great visibility, from the chance to represent our country at the Mondial du fromage in Tours in September 2025. Which will give them a good year to prepare for this prestigious competition.
But winning is not everything, maintains Yannick Achim. “We also and above all hold competitions to make contacts and broaden our horizons,” he says. And the more we learn, the more we realize that we know nothing. Cheese-making knowledge is endless! » We will therefore have a small, but irresistible glimpse of it on May 15 at the Palais des congrès de Montréal. It’s a date.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.