For several years, the yellow and blue storefront of La petite Dana was a landmark in the Gare du Palais sector in Quebec City. When the owners’ daughter painted the place a cobalt blue to make it her own Asian street food restaurant, the element of surprise fueled curiosity. What would we be able to eat there? Would we be disappointed? And what would be left of Dana at Madame Phan? A pandemic later, we finally pushed the door.
The young chef and restaurateur Kwen Phan not only took over her parents’ restaurant – renamed in honor of her mother – to continue to offer Asian dishes in this district of the capital, but a few months after its opening, she launched collaborative evenings with city chefs, including Karine Jacques (Buttermilk) and Joël Pelletier (La Planque), participated in culinary events and created her own signature beer. And that’s without forgetting that in these times of labor shortage, Madame Phan serves lunch there — a rare species. So much dynamism and arguments that made you want to sit down there!
Along the way, we replay certain scenes of Street food. Asia, streaming on Netflix. A series whose traditional and inventive cuisine has so intoxicated us; a conscious and relevant bias.
The images full of the head, so we enter Madame Phan, for the first time, the day after the holiday season. A storm shakes Quebec and we are delighted to see that we are not the only ones to find refuge there. The decor, which is totally different, is warmer with the wooden appliqués on the walls and the black openwork lampshades. A bar in the center also makes the link with the kitchen.
Accompanied by two greedy children to whom we had promised soup — a pho, we hoped! —, we quickly go around the menu of the day which casts a wide net on the theme of Asia. Options range from Meal Soup and Thai Basil Stir Fry to Chicken Curry or General Tao. We are looking for the bao bunsthe bánh mi or original specialties from Vietnam, where M is fromme Phan. Failing that, we set our sights on what inspires us the most.
The verdict is bittersweet. The meal-soup (chicken, vermicelli, carrot, cabbage, broccoli) is comforting without being overwhelming. The Thai basil stir-fry proves to be the best of the dishes ordered thanks to the contrast of flavours; the well-grilled chicken, the sweet acidity of rice vinegar and the burst of lemongrass, mint and fresh basil. A kind of warm salad on a vermicelli base that makes us breathe a sigh of relief.
We also opt for the only dish with a Vietnamese name: the bún thịt nướng, a bowl of grilled meat in a veggie version. The plate contains chunks of carrots, broccoli, green peppers and tofu with an acrid and uncertain taste that leaves doubts about its freshness. Everything is coated in a sticky sauce with no real flavor and served with white rice. When clearing, our server does not ask us any questions about our appreciation of vegetable protein, yet left whole on the plate. We understand that he was alone on the floor and that there is a labor shortage. Nevertheless, observing, checking and probing guests is the basis of table service. Not all customers are vocal about their experience. Most, in fact, shut up and just never come back.
Except that we wanted to give Madame Phan a second chance.
Sustain effectively
A few weeks later, here we are again with a friend who had just arrived from Vietnam. This time, the dining room was crowded with workers from neighboring offices and the waiter, the same as on our first visit, already had brew in his forelock. It is obvious that people come here at lunchtime to sustain themselves effectively, not to live a culinary experience.
The menu was also the same as on our first visit. We chose the crispy noodles with prawns and the grilled meat bowl, this time with chicken. Second chance, we said.
Surprisingly, the dish was nothing like the plain rice and sticky sauce we were served the first time. It looked almost like Thai basil stir-fry in every way, except for the herbs, here coriander and fish sauce. Which makes us say that if we had to go back, we would take one of these two dishes, and nothing else.
The crispy noodle nest featured a nice amount of shelled prawns, smothered in a very gelatinous sweet-salty sauce and topped with chunks of carrots, broccoli and green pepper. An air of deja vu, yes. Let’s add that as dessert of the day, we offer a fortune cookie – which is more of a nice way to say goodbye than a dessert in itself.
How to conclude this review? Far be it from us to overshadow the affairs of Mr.me Phan, which is still in its start-up phase. However, we have to be honest and our experiences did not live up to the potential this restaurant can have. We wanted to be surprised, amazed by a street food that brings out dishes that are too often repeated. We understand that Quebecers love General Tao, but why not dare and create the new dish that will cause as much sensation?
And obviously, it is not at noon that we can discover the signature of Kwen Phan. A look at the evening menu lets us predict more pleasure in the mouth, especially with a soup pho and spring rolls. And that’s very happy. For our part, we will leave time to time, while keeping an interested eye on the evolution of the place. Who knows. Never two without three, they say.