It was in the fall of 2017 that the eight teachers at a Norwegian institute of education began discussing buying a new coat for their teaching activities outside. Obviously, their future purchase had to meet the requirements of this type of job.
“We want to be well and be able to teach in natural settings, in a variety of weather conditions for long periods of time,” explain the teachers in an article published in the Canadian Journal of Environmental Education.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESSE ARCHIVES
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However, the teachers were also aware that they had to set an example in terms of responsible consumption.
Concerned about the state of the planet and the debates on sustainable development, we concluded that it was crucial to take into consideration, in our consumer choices, the values that we wanted to convey as a team.
Extract from the article of the professors of a Norwegian institute
It was easy to agree on the need to avoid overconsumption. The teachers therefore agreed that initially it was best to repair the existing coats until they were no longer usable. It was after that things went wrong.
“We expected it to be fairly easy to agree on a series of practical considerations in terms of ecological sustainability. In fact, our initial dialogue turned into long heated debates on identity, values, sustainability, textiles, eco-labels, environmental protection, working conditions, personal integrity and fiscal responsibility. Selecting a responsible coat has become rather complicated. »
After two years of discussions, the teachers found that there was an impasse. They therefore decided to follow a more scientific process, with data collection, analysis and sharing, which took another year of work.
Four main principles
They ended up agreeing on four main principles that can guide a purchasing process: product sustainability, eco-responsible production practices, working conditions and social and political aspects.
It is therefore necessary first to ensure that the product is durable (physically and socially) and repairable.
PHOTO HUGO-SÉBASTIEN AUBERT, LA PRESSE ARCHIVES
You have to be prepared for all outdoor weather conditions.
“Social durability refers to clothing that can be used for a long period of time and is still appreciated and valued in social circles,” the professors write.
In short: you need clothes that don’t go out of fashion.
Furthermore, physical durability is not necessarily easy to assess: practically no manufacturer provides information on the lifespan of their garments.
The second principle, responsible production, can relate to different aspects: carbon emissions, the use of recyclable materials, the use of petroleum-based products and other chemicals, the consequences of the extraction of materials and production on habitat and biodiversity, the type and amount of energy used and, ultimately, waste management.
“It is practically impossible for the ordinary consumer to have access to all the information related to these aspects: the time required, the investigative work and the ability to synthesize all of this is enormous. »
Fortunately, there are eco-labels, certified by independent parties, that can help, such as Global Organic Textile Standard, Bluesign or the European Union Eco-label, which sets high standards for the entire lifespan of a product. Other certifications deal with the question of the working conditions of employees, namely the third principle proposed by the professors.
In fact, there are about sixty certifications that exist in the world of clothing and textiles, which has a perverse effect. “The quantity and diversity of these certifications makes it difficult for the consumer to distinguish between those that are complete and reliable and those that are not. »
There is no certification that touches on the fourth factor, the social and political reasons that might favor one company or another. This could be a small local business start-up or a business that donates a portion of its profits to a political cause deemed important.
Finally, the choice of teachers focused on which coat? None ! They haven’t been able to get along yet…
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