La Presse in Belgium | A night on the rails

Night trains are making a comeback in Europe. The European Sleeper, on the rails since last May, is one of the rare private companies to compete with national carriers, such as the Austrian ÖBB which dominates the night train market. What does a journey look like? Story of a night between Brussels and Berlin.

(Brussels) It is 6:45 p.m. at Brussels-Midi station, in the Belgian capital. A little late, the European Sleeper is finally on its way.

Passing through Antwerp, Rotterdam and Amsterdam, the train is expected to take 12 hours to reach Berlin, Germany, its final destination. An ode to slowness which contrasts with the hour and a half it takes to make the plane journey, but which encourages discussions between those who choose the adventure.

“I don’t do this out of ecological conviction. I try not to fly too much when I go to Europe,” says Fannie Mainier, a young French professional living in Brussels.

“This is a work trip and everyone thought I was a bit crazy when I asked to travel by train. Because it takes much longer and a little more expensive, even if it is the company that pays,” she adds.

In the next cabin, Jurgen Defroy is rather happy with the price.

“My plan was decided at the last minute and flying was not an option. It was over 300 euros [440 $ CAN environ] and there, for the round trip [en couchette]I only pay 190 euros [280 $ CAN environ] “, explains the bartender on his way to a day-long conference in Berlin.

On the train, there are three types of cabins whose price can vary from around forty dollars to more than $200 per person, per way, depending on when you book.

The cheapest option is a seat in a compartment of six. There are also bunk beds for four or six people, then more spacious ones with only three beds. There are some cabins reserved for women and, if you are willing to pay, it is always possible to privatize an entire compartment.

“You definitely sleep with strangers. But after five minutes, you already know everyone. And that’s the pleasant side of the adventure, meeting people,” says smiling Jurgen Defroy, who will not even stay one night in Berlin and will take the European Sleeper the next evening, to save a night in the hotel .

The low cost bet

Once night falls, there is something comforting about finding yourself lulled by the movements of the train, lying in your bunk, with your little blanket and pillow.

On the other hand, it is true that comfort is at a minimum. It’s certainly better than sleeping in an airplane seat, but you quickly feel cramped, especially if you’re tall. A feeling that must be reinforced in high season when the cabins are full.

“We don’t expect to be profitable right away. But we are very happy with the summer results,” says Chris Engelsman, co-director of European Sleeper, over the phone.

It must be understood that the young private company is betting on low-cost volume to compete with Scandinavian, French, Italian, Scottish, but especially Austrian national carriers.

ÖBB is dominant in the inter-European night train market at the moment, with luxurious sleepers and numerous European connections.

But this primarily serves the interests of the state which finances it, believes Chris Engelsman. According to him, more options, more journeys and more competition can only be beneficial for the vitality of night trains throughout Europe.

“I prefer to try to improve current conditions instead of having to rely on government aid or having it all thought out by state railway companies. Because as soon as there are also private companies, the quality increases,” explains the man who wanted to bring back night trains as soon as they were removed from the rails.

Just after 6 a.m., after a short night, Fannie is desperately looking for a coffee on the platform of Berlin Central Station.

“I would say that you really have to be convinced, because it’s true that it’s not very comfortable. So, I wouldn’t recommend it to my parents, for example. But otherwise, it’s adventure and for a vacation weekend, it’s very good. »

Despite the lack of comfort, success seems to be there. According to data from European Sleeper, more than 20,000 people have already taken the train since last May.

The company even announced on October 10 that it would extend its service to Prague next March. It is also targeting a route to Barcelona in 2025.

Chris Engelsman still recognizes that the first low season will be difficult. Especially if it cannot quickly attract business travelers to balance revenues over the year and sell its tickets elsewhere than on its own website.