Kayakers in troubled waters | The Press

Three American kayakers and a Scotsman achieved a feat last summer by being the first to successfully cross the Northwest Passage, by human force, in a single season. Only one problem: they have just been accused of violating Canadian law by illegally camping in a migratory bird sanctuary.

They are exposed to hefty fines. But above all, this hitch seriously tarnishes their prowess. And it shows that adventurers must obey the rules, like everyone else.

“It’s complicated for people who go on adventures,” recognizes a specialist in polar expeditions, filmmaker Caroline Côté. Canadian parks are mega protected, and for good reasons. There are also private lands to respect. You must apply for several permits. I start a year in advance and sometimes that’s not enough. »

At the very start of their expedition, in July 2023, American kayakers West Hansen, Jeffrey Wueste and Eileen Visser and Scotsman Mark Agnew were to paddle through a passage between Bylot Island, part of Sirmilik National Park, and the Baffin Land. However, the passage was blocked by ice. After two weeks of waiting, they decided to go around Bylot Island to the north, a much longer journey that required overnight stays on dry land. However, Bylot Island is a refuge for migratory birds, it is prohibited to dock or camp there without a permit.

It is also illegal to have a firearm in your possession in a national park. Permits can be granted to certain categories of visitors to protect themselves against polar bears, but very specific criteria must be met.

The adventurers, the Arctic Cowboys, did not obtain any of these permits. On their blog, they did not mention this issue. They simply announced that they were closing their satellite locator for a few days “for security reasons”. They reactivated it after passing Bylot Island.

A little over a month later, on August 25, during a stopover in Cambridge Bay, the kayakers were stopped and questioned by officers from Parks Canada and the Royal Canadian Mounted Police before being released. Once again, the adventurers did not report this incident in their blog, preferring to talk about the generosity of the inhabitants.

The Arctic Cowboys reached their goal, Bathurst Inlet, on October 8, 2023, after an 83-day expedition. The specialized media ExplorersWeb hailed this success by granting them the title of second expedition of the year.

However, last November, the Crown laid 45 charges against each of the kayakers under the Canada National Parks Act and some Migratory Birds Convention Act. The four adventurers must appear in Iqaluit on February 5.

ExplorersWeb did not appreciate these developments.

“The Arctic Cowboys’ journey was one of the most impressive kayaking expeditions in recent years,” writes journalist Ash Routen. However, disregard for local laws tarnished their success. ExplorersWeb cannot condone this, any more than it can welcome a difficult climb up a forbidden mountain in Bhutan. The natural world, even in the far reaches of the Arctic, is not simply a stage for the pursuit of adventurers’ goals. »

Not easy on the ground

Frédéric Dion, who has completed several expeditions to polar lands, indicates, however, that it is not always easy to follow the rules to the letter. He gives the example of a kayaking expedition to Glacier Bay, Alaska, after a comprehensive briefing with park officials.

“Once you are released into the field, with your map, your notes and your memory of what you have read and heard, you arrive in front of an island and you wonder if you have the right to sleep on it. With the tide, the current, the wind, and so many factors, you see that it looks easy on paper, but in reality, it’s not easy. »

The entire procedure for obtaining permits can be complex and time-consuming. Frédéric Dion recounts how he had to seek hunting permits for wilderness survival expeditions, only to ultimately kill and eat two squirrels in a week.

“You sometimes wonder if it’s worth it. The answer is yes. There is an element of public image in that: I could not do these adventures and broadcast them without being in compliance with the rules. I have a duty. »