Grandson of merchant, grandson of winegrower and son of winegrower, Mickaël Gaulhiac fell into the wine cask when he was very young… This former head of culture in the Bordeaux region is today a happy owner, who works organically and biodynamics. After suffering 2 frosts (in 2017 and 2021), let’s wish him luck because his wines deserve it. We are in the oldest vineyard of Bergerac, in an appellation dating from 1946, Le Pécharmant.
On a little over 6 hectares, the young vines of Château Hukulumbarros were planted between 2003 and 2011, with qualitative densities of 5,000 vines per hectare. Conductor of an ecosystem that gives pride of place to nature, Mickaël Gaulhiac works the vines in a natural way. From Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, he uses no chemical weedkillers and no synthetic products. Just a little copper and sulfur on the leaves.
Before it becomes Pécharmant, the grapes spend a long time in the winery. A semi-underground cellar, a gravity cellar which allows the grapes to arrive in the stainless steel vats by gravity, that is to say just deposited in the vats without suffering abuse. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine will be made naturally, without yeast or commercial products, or even for certain vintages without added sulfur.
Last step, a passage in the barrel cellar so that the wine begins its aging phase. It is only after a year of natural stabilization that it will be bottled like the latest addition “Kallinago 2020”, a sulphite-free Pécharmant which is also its first organic wine.
In the kitchen with chef Stéphane Cuzin and the wines of Château Hukulumbarros
Chef Stéphane Cuzin takes up the challenge of marrying the 2 vintages of Pécharmant from Mickaël Gaulhiac with his seasonal cuisine. This chef from the establishment “La table du marché” in Bergerac advises you:
- Starter: Pécharmant Kallinago 2020 with a Bolognese-style langoustine accompanied by lentils
- Main course: Pécharmant Constellations 2019 with a deer back and a ripe beet chutney and its 100% vegetable sauce.
- Dessert: Pécharmant Kallinago 2020 with a granita of mandarins and house meringue
Sound recording of the report: Alexandre Bucquoy