This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Some wines to find and taste before they disappear from the shelves.
Sémillon 2021, Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza, Argentina ($16.65 — 13653001)
Less rounded undoubtedly than its Bordeaux colleague, this dry white with character nevertheless presents a touch of exotic richness stimulated by an acidity which brings it to the right place. Everything remains precise, detailed and quite enjoyable. At this price, unmissable. (5) **1/2
Grain Sauvage 2022, Cave de Gan, Jurançon Sec, South-West, France ($17.25 — 14942867)
There are appellations and grape varieties that still retain an element of mystery, even in 2023. And that’s so much the better! And no, the jurançon is not a macaroon type candy near Montluçon and, no again, the gros manseng is not a giant fish swimming near the Arcachon basin. This beautiful cooperative cellar serves us here the versatile white grape variety on a seafood platter, playing with its bitterness and its salty touch to better rely on the lemony acidities of the candied lemon, all without the slightest residual sugar. It’s clean, original and above all worth discovering. Montluçon will be for another time! (5) **1/2
Côtes-du-Rhône “Adunatio” 2021, M. Chapoutier, Rhône, France ($21.55 — 12207025)
The Côtes-du-Rhône? Vast program! Some figures to better understand this great classic sold at a rate of 1 million bottles every day, more than a third of which are exported. We are talking here about 31 appellations, 34 grape varieties, 17 vintages, 65,197 hectares of vineyards with a proportion of 76% reds, which still leaves too little room for otherwise delicious whites and rosés. And sold at very good prices. This cuvée is part of Chapoutier’s organic collection and is a fine example of a red with sustained fruitiness, clean and medium body, with just the right amount of southern accents to hear the scrubland sing against a background of grilled pork chops. . (5) **1/2
Nebbiolo “Mungalat” 2022, Tenuta Ca’Du Russ, Piedmont, Italy ($22.50 — 14997930)
If this red from organic farming casts a wide net with its Langhe appellation, it nonetheless delivers a happy and above all very precise version of the grape variety. Floral and spicy nuances enhanced with a hint of fresh leather on a background of tight, very fresh and sustained tannins, and a civilized bitterness on the finish. Not the most complex but a good nebbiolo at this price. (5) ***
Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2020, Brigaldara, Veneto, Italy ($22.95 — 14477977)
“Revisiting” the lees of a previously raisined marc gives the corvinones, corvinas and rondinellas an additional chewiness, an “attendance” which both elevates the fruity debate while lightly structuring a whole from which springs a new range of beautiful bitters . Nothing too austere at Brigaldara because here the candied fruit seduces, with its brightness, its hold, its palette where spices and stone notes prevail. My favorite wedding? Obviously a nugget of Parmigiano Reggiano matured for no less than 36 months. (5) *** ©
NC Non Confunditur 2021, Tenuta Argiano, Toscana Rosso, Italy ($23.15 — 11269401)
The 20% Sangiovese somewhat “airs out” the passion of the Cabernets and Merlots launched on a structuring, very fresh palate, lined with fine tannins which, as they evolve in the mouth, determine the structure. We hesitate here between notes of leather and fresh tobacco, undergrowth, ripe redcurrant and blackcurrant. A red that will benefit with a year or two of bottle but still very comfortable with a nice forest veal escalope. (5) *** ©
Saumur-Champigny “Buvons des Fruits” 2022, Domaine Fouet, Loire, France ($24.25 — 14090094)
Yes, drink fruit, why not! If only to tempt a thirst that doesn’t want to hang up its skates but on the contrary asks for more. This is exactly what Julien Fouet knows how to do by amplifying the resonance chamber of each of them to better emphasize their character, with flexibility, freshness and cohesion. We are indeed in the Saumur-Champigny appellation where it finds both casualness and a significant element of elegance. A highly recommended natural wine to be served lightly chilled with some bistro food. (5) ***
Château de Gaudou “Renaissance” 2019, Cahors, South-West, France ($25.60 — 10272093)
Less showy, even less flamboyant than its Argentinian colleague, the Malbec is on the Cahors side more taciturn and reserved, as if it were patient to better grasp your emotions, the scope of which we already suspect. Yes, it is colorful and structured, but without excess, however, while the house promotes a gentle extraction, in a mode of balance, even elegance. (5) *** ©
Barbera d’Asti “La Tota” 2021, Marchesi Alfieri, Piedmont, Italy ($27.95 — 12102389)
It is the finish, particularly studied here, which marks this beautiful barbera cuvée with sumptuous fruitiness, both ripe and provided with abundant and high quality tannins. Add the aging which gives a velvety patina and makes the whole thing breathe and you have a red well suited to accompany your veal tortellini. Coming from the same house, undoubtedly more ambitious, this Alfiera vintage with noble woody notes. (5) ***
Burgundy “Cuvée Edme” 2022, Maison Champy, Burgundy, France ($28.60 — 10516625)
The small volumes of the “delicate” 2021 vintage are pushing the market to quench its thirst with this 2022, which is still very fresh and lively, with notes of cherry and mousseron, all presented on a palate whose texture may surprise at first glance with the relief of its tannins. Everything remains harmonious without being too complex, with a clean finish. (5) ***
Bandol “Moulin des Costes” 2022, Domaine Bunan, Bandol, France ($29.95 — 13253218)
Fullness and vinosity form the backdrop here while a palpable discretion enriches the rest with its nuances of dried apricot, melon and orange blossom honey. We are almost in viscosity as the slightly acidic impression persists and signs. A very dry rosé where Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre waltz in a slow but emotionally intense tango. (5) ***1/2 ©
Chablis “Saint Martin” 2022, Domaine Laroche, Burgundy, France ($30.50 — 114223)
The house has accustomed us to integrity and rigor, it does not give up a square milliliter here in the process by offering the equally lively and precise version of a Chardonnay that is very well dressed in terms of fruit. A light dry white but of good volume with lemony nuances enhanced with a tonic saline hint on the finish. It’s straight, polished, refined. The essentials of a classic Chablis. (5) ***
Arretxea 2021, Irouléguy, France ($32.75 — 12097911)
But why don’t we drink this blend more often where tannat dominates (complemented here with cabernets)? Because Basque is difficult to pronounce? Because its emotional charge is disturbing when tasting due to its profound originality? Small paradox all the same as this vintage. Already the very very dense youthful color announces the color with this impression that the sequel will make you go to the barricades as the tannins of the tannat will not do you any favors. However, the freshness but above all the low alcohol content – 12 degrees! – builds everything up with the most serene balances, evoking in turn nuances of cornflower, blackberry and paprika against a background of very civilized tannins here. Not bad at all on the roast pigeon, even if we eat it very rarely. (5 +) ***1/2 ©
Le Macchiole 2021, Bolgheri Rosso, Tuscany, Italy ($42.75 — 15215848)
A pinch of Syrah takes us to where the classic Bordeaux grape varieties dominate, giving it an indisputable Mediterranean spirit. We sail on a warm fruity sea where ripe, rich and abundant tannins surge while finely structuring a consistent, coherent and well-held suite. Not at all a “glouglou” type red but rather a refined ambassador invited to a nightly table where the best animal proteins are in order. (5 +) ***1/2 ©
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