This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Some wines to find and taste before they disappear from the shelves.
Fleurie 2021, André Colonge et Fils, Beaujolais, France ($21.55 – 14730549)
Can a grape variety, like a human, fall in love? This Gamay, in any case, fell in love at first sight, whether with the vintage, with the terroir, with the artisan, or more simply with a host of parameters that escape all logic. Still, he seems happy and he claims it while sharing his joy with us. With just the right fruitiness, in aromas and suppleness, and this grain of tannin so fine that it seems to dissipate, like the scent of a bouquet of roses already faded, but the memory of which persists and makes us dream. The “Villages” 2022 from the same house ($19.50 – 14942841) is, at a very friendly price, in the same spirit. (5) ***
Beaujolais “Ultimatum Climat” 2017, Domaine Les Vignes du Maynes, Beaujolais-Villages, France ($27.15 – 15195189)
Bojo like that, it instills a climate, an atmosphere, to make you sit down at the table to remake the world, starting with the unsuspected virtues of the great Gamay! Here is a very accomplished, measured and blended one, with a subtly detailed profile and who, far from shouting, whispers. Julien Guillot invites us, with this “Villages”, to dream of simple happiness, one sip at a time, even if climatic imperatives can cause anxiety in some. A wine that has length, with that! To be used by fans of the grape variety and those who are not yet subscribed to it. (5) ***1/2
Chardonnay 2021, Quails’Gate, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($26.05 – 12456179)
This chardonnay, rich in fruit, undulates with tender flavors of pear and peach in juice while playing with textures on a low acidity, but still very lively whole. From a house always highly recommendable. (5) ***
Côte Roannaise “Oudan” 2021, Domaine Sérol, Loire, France ($29.85 – 14721669)
We hardly think about Auvergne, and even less about St-Romain Gamay, and yet, a significantly different expression of Grand Gamay remains a definite point of interest. Especially in the hands of this family estate working in organic farming and of which this Oudan vintage still remains a reference. The fruitiness here seems more “dark”, as if the serious aspect of the discourse prevailed for the moment over the, let’s say, more festive aspect linked to the grape variety, with this character of black fruits where the red cherry peeks out with, on the palate, an equally firm sap, “relaunched” by additional acidity. Wait a bit or serve it on a flank steak with fries. (5+) © ***
Varvàra 2021, Castello di Bolgheri, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy ($43.75 – 14152603)
The Bolgheri appellation relies on Bordeaux grape varieties in a context which, for several decades now, has confirmed its magnificent potential. With this ample and warm aspect in the form, but without erasing the touch of austerity and mystery of this blend where Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot dominate. The palate is tight, very fresh, of high quality. We have the impression, at this price, of being invited to the big table. (5+) © ****
Stratus Red 2019, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada ($54.50 – 13108862)
We are here undeniably immersed in a cool climate, but where, paradoxically, tannins and fruit offer perfect maturity. What’s more, it reveals a depth of flavors and a mastery of tannins which already give it a lot of class, even breed. Rich in color and with a spicy and woody sap, this red offers a length worthy of a vintage that has found its mark. (5) © ***1/2
Kopke 30 years old, port, Douro, Portugal ($102.75 – 884213)
The 1993 vintage which inaugurated my first year of collaboration with your favorite newspaper is also the one which gave birth to this tawny, whose passage of time would be capped by its bottling in 2023. Time, like words, has molded itself into it. peaceful days, out of sight, for the port kept in seclusion under the damp staves of its large botti, and displayed in broad daylight for readers who have not deprived themselves of drinking it in all colors . With, at the end of the course, a muté which “liberates”, with the impression of “forgetting” its sugars on a background of English caramel, cardamom, saffron, cedar and polish, thinning out a finish which, far to be oily, persists with lively and long notes of bitter orange. To serve, one thimble at a time, on your passing days, to bring back the best memories. ****
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.