Twelve participants enjoyed a French cheese tasting in Shanghai, where they gradually sampled a range of cheeses, from soft to more robust varieties. Despite initial hesitance, attendees appreciated the flavors, highlighting the rise of cheese consumption in China, with a 16% annual growth rate. French producers, including the Bel group, are adapting products for local tastes while emphasizing quality. Traditional methods are also gaining traction, with local artisans attracting a growing Chinese clientele eager for flavor over mere health benefits.
Exploring French Cheese Tasting in Shanghai
In a delightful twist to their culinary experiences, twelve participants gathered for a French cheese tasting at a unique shop in Shanghai. One participant couldn’t help but exclaim, “It smells like feet!” To this, the host encouraged, “Go ahead, give it a taste!” At first, the bites were hesitant, but Hua Chen, the host, had meticulously planned the tasting order. The experience began with soft cheeses, gradually progressing to firmer varieties and from milder to more complex flavors. “If we had started with the blue cheese, some might have declared, ‘I can’t handle that,’” he explained. “We approach this like caring for a child, gently introducing them to the wonders of cheese.”
The Rise of Cheese Consumption in China
Despite the initial reluctance, the bold aroma of Livarot caught the participants off guard. “Except for Livarot, I loved all the cheeses,” remarked one taster, while another noted the availability of brie and blue cheese in China, emphasizing that for many other varieties, specialized shops are necessary. This French shop boasts around thirty iconic cheese options.
Cheese consumption in China is experiencing a remarkable surge, with an average annual growth rate of 16% from 2012 to 2022. However, supermarket offerings mainly consist of industrial processed cheeses. A recent report highlighted sweet cheese products, such as lollipops, targeting children through nutritional benefits—an innovation from a French company tailored to Chinese tastes.
French producers have made significant inroads into the Chinese market over the past 15 years. The Bel group, for instance, now offers approximately one hundred different cheese products. “We must consistently innovate to capture consumer interest,” stated Gorge Bai, the general manager of Bel China, in an interview. Their top-selling product? Familiar cubes often found on appetizer trays. However, flavors are uniquely crafted for the Chinese palate, such as the “chocolate orange flavor,” which symbolizes good fortune in Chinese culture and is beautifully timed for the Lunar New Year.
The sweet recipes differ greatly from those typically found in France, yet the brands remain recognizable: Laughing Cow, Babybel, and Kiri. The French flag symbolizes a commitment to quality and assures consumers of superior taste, as Bai noted. The cheese cream intended for tea is made with imported milk, though not all products follow this model. To accelerate growth, Bel has invested in a local company to manage the production of some cheeses within China.
Some artisans take it a step further, as showcased in a cheese factory that uses traditional French techniques. They forgo sugar, opting for local wine instead, allowing the cheese to mature for several weeks. This high-quality product has garnered attention from a growing number of local customers. Once predominantly foreign, the clientele of this Beijing cheese factory is now primarily Chinese. “Initially, Chinese consumers purchased cheese for its health benefits; now, they are increasingly seeking flavor,” explained sales manager Shaoxiong Lin. While over 55% of cheese consumed in China is imported, the ‘Made in China’ label is anticipated to capture a larger share of the market in the years ahead.