(Paris) With cowboy boots treading the sand that shift suits and long evening dresses, Chanel continued on Tuesday to explore the equestrian world during a haute couture show in the Bois de Boulogne.
Posted at 11:02
By moving the show to the Etrier de Paris, in the west of the capital, the house has broken with tradition: it is at the Grand Palais then – after the latter is closed for work – at the ephemeral Grand Palais, in the center of Paris, which Chanel had been organizing its fashion shows for years.
But the theme echoes the previous haute couture show in January, which Charlotte Casiraghi of the princely family of Monaco had opened on horseback in a setting designed by the same artist, Xavier Veilhan.
“I am part of a continuity with the previous show, while leaving room for experimentation”, underlines artistic director Virginie Viard, in the statement of intent for the show.
No gallop in the merry-go-round this time, but hope with the first look, always carefully chosen by the designers, which carries the message of the collection: a bright green suit, short jacket and mid-length skirt with buttons which opens on black boots.
PHOTO CHRISTOPHE ARCHAMBAULT, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Round shoulders, square backs, embroidery with geometric patterns are also reminiscent of the 1930s, while giving a nod to the seventies.
Two other long outfits, an olive green dress and an emerald green ensemble break away from Chanel’s usual color code. These cowboy boots will accompany most outfits, such as rather long tweed suits or airy evening dresses.
Shortened pants and some shorter dresses are worn, on the other hand, with T-bar shoes.
“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses as Mademoiselle Chanel designed them in the 1930s, close to the body, even if they are quite shouldered here”, notes Mme Viard.
Round shoulders, square backs, embroidery with geometric patterns are also reminiscent of the 1930s, while giving a nod to the seventies.
They resonate with the constructivism of a very graphic decor.
PHOTO CHRISTOPHE ARCHAMBAULT, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
An emerald green ensemble breaks away from Chanel’s usual color code.
After walking on the sand of the merry-go-round, the models climb the stairs in a scenography that matches the decor and allows the guests to clearly see the rooms from all angles.
Tribute to the tradition of haute couture fashion shows, less and less respected: a wedding dress that closes the show with a kind of fringed shawl and black shoes.
It is the Dutch model Jill Kortleve who presents this end outfit, as important as the first.
With her height that is close to that of an average Frenchwoman, she has been parading for several seasons for Chanel as for other luxury brands, anxious to be part of the ” positive body », which fights against stereotypical norms, but is still in an embryonic state on the catwalks.