Caribbean | The renaissance of downtown Kingston

Victim of its bad reputation, the city center of the Jamaican capital is getting a makeover.

(Kingston) Sunday noon in downtown Kingston. Under the blazing sun, a young guide does her show for a group of tourists. His visit focuses on the “Instagrammable” mural works that have recently sprung up in the neighborhood. We take pictures, while she screams into her microphone to cover the sound system who plays loudly a little further away.

Even 10 years ago, this scene simply would not have been possible. The heart of the Jamaican capital had the reputation of being a risky area and few tourists dared to venture there.

This is still the case, to a certain extent.

The crime rate of “ downtown Kingston” remains higher than the West Indian average. The urban landscape is strongly decrepit and poverty is still very visible in this southern part of the city, which adjoins the seaside.

But the trend is reversing.

Since 2003, the municipality has stepped up actions to slow the decline of the neighborhood, by attracting investors and financing “redevelopment” projects. A salutary political decision, after years of laissez-faire, during which the New Kingston district, located further north, established itself as the new business center.

With its thematic tours focused on culture, Kingston Creative is one of the cogs in this revitalization. The non-profit organization, founded in 2017, proposes a new approach for the rebirth of the city center, stimulating tourism, community life, business partnerships and local art – hence these outdoor mural works. heart of the neighborhood.

Its dynamism allowed the capital to win the prize for “best creative destination in the world” in 2023.

But Kingston Creative is just the tip of the iceberg.

Further in the area, streets have been repaved and structures renovated. Buildings were constructed to accommodate new businesses. Restaurants have sprung up. A coastal sidewalk, 4 m wide, now links the beach and the offices of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Trade which has just moved to Rue Port Royal, by the sea.

A sign of the times: the Hilton chain has moved into the imposing Rok, a 12-story hotel that clearly calls for the return of tourists to the neighborhood.

“Obviously, it’s best not to walk around here with gold chains around your neck. As in all big cities, you have to have a little common sense,” says Christopher Wright, director of business development for the Jamaica Tourism Council in Miami.

“But I can tell you that the government has put a lot of effort into revitalizing this area. »

Between gentrification and heritage protection

This philosophy does not come without potential collateral damage.

Some are already worried about gentrification in the neighborhood. On the X network, a local journalist recently urged Kingston residents to acquire property in the area, before they become overpriced. If the trend continues, “renoviction” could become an issue.

All the more dangerous as downtown Kingston is teeming with real built heritage, witness to the colonial era and the freebooting past of the island. In Church Street, the former warehouse of a rum distillery was for sale during our visit. Will he still be there next time?

We’re not there yet. But the transition has clearly begun. And some travel agencies did not wait for the end of the process to promote the district.

This is the case of Tash Johnson, met by pure chance during our guided tour. Owner of a “destination management company” located in Tampa, United States, this daughter of a famous reggaeman (Black Scorpio) already offers tours of the neighborhood to her clients.

“Is this a difficult destination to sell? We have to focus on the positive, she concludes. Downtown Kingston isn’t the fanciest area, but it’s also the heart of the city. It has its own beauty and has an undeniable historical heritage. It’s important, you know. Our culture is not just about beaches…”

Five places to visit

Wray’s Tavern

Founded in 1825, this tavern is the oldest drinking establishment in Kingston. The establishment was first called Shakespeare Tavern, perhaps due to its immediate neighbor: the historic Ward Theater (under renovation). The place is picturesque, and even more so with its backyard, where you can bet on horse races.

Cultural tourism

They talk about music, history, culture. They are quite recent and give the neighborhood the splash of color it was missing. Kingston Creative offers a guided tour of the mural works of downtown Kingston, but also a bus tour devoted to reggae and a wandering focused on food.

National Gallery of Jamaica

Founded in 1974, the National Gallery of Jamaica is the largest and oldest museum in the English-speaking Caribbean. It has an interesting collection of classic, modern and contemporary Jamaican art: John Pringle, AD Scott, Aaron and Marjorie Matalon…

Seaside walk

We tend to forget it, but downtown Kingston faces the sea. You can stroll along the water’s edge, observing the fishermen and lovers who come to seek a little peace and quiet far from the noise of the cars. A bubble steeped in history, since Port Royal (former name of Kingston) was also a crossroads for pirates of the 17th century^e century, Henry Morgan and Blackbeard at the head.

The market

It’s hotter, but what a spectacle! The Kingston market is a whirlwind of colors, of sellers, of clothes, of fruit, of criers and barkers, of schemers and pushers of ganja, with the added bonus of open-air churches, where Jeezusss is shouted at the top of his lungs. The heart of the heart of the city. A must-have. Walk slowly and watch your wallet.