Blue planet, green ideas | A bonus from the government to have your clothes repaired

No less than 700,000 tonnes of clothing are thrown away each year in France. Hoping to reduce these mountains of waste, the French government is setting a precedent by offering a “bonus” for patching. The measure also extends to old shoes.

The goal is to convince people that it is more beneficial to repair than to throw away.

Concretely, those who have jeans patched or shoes repaired will obtain a reduction in their bill of 6 to 25 euros (from $8.83 to $36.78). Repairing a hole in a sweater, replacing a lining or a zipper: the range of eligible repairs will be wide.

The “reparations fund” released by the State is 3.7 million euros in 2023; it will rise to 11 million in 2024.

In order to manage these bonuses, the French State has entrusted the eco-organization Refashion with the mandate to enlist and “label” sewing and shoemaking workshops. Refashion consultant and spokesperson Charlotte Roussel says workforce recruitment, with webinars and door-to-door canvassing, is underway.

During an exchange with The Press, the expert specified that French customers will first be eligible for five price reductions on the textile side and four on the footwear side. The measure will be in force from next October.

Tons and tons of fabrics thrown away

In Quebec, textiles represent nearly 6% of materials thrown away, according to data collected in 2019-2020 by Recyc-Québec. We are talking about 292,000 tonnes during this period. An increase of 3.1% in 10 years.

In government, the Minister of Justice, Simon Jolin-Barrette, has already announced a bill relating to the right to repair of household appliances and electronic devices. At her office, political advisor Justine Gravel indicated to The Press that it is a “priority” to better protect consumers’ rights and their purchasing power, especially in the current context of inflation.

“As part of this bill, we have targeted goods that are the subject of a large number of complaints to the Consumer Protection Office. That said, we are closely following what is being done in Europe and elsewhere in the world, so that Quebec continues to be a leader in consumer protection,” she added.

A craze for patching

At Atelier Couture D, on Saint-Laurent Boulevard in Montreal, there are spools of thread of all colors, up to the ceiling. During the pandemic, balls stopped, as did weddings. A large part of the clientele remained teleworking. The owner, Pierre Dextrase, explains that he was forced to rent part of his workshop. He was surrounded by five seamstresses; he only has one left.

Today, however, the designer notices a craze for patching clothes. More and more customers are coming to have the size of their pants adjusted. For some repairs, there is often a two-week wait.

“In Quebec, I believe that the first step consists of revaluing the profession. Sewing is an art. Unfortunately, there is a serious labor shortage. Replacing a coat clasp is a lot of work. You have to start by undoing it, unstitching it, redoing it. It can easily take 45 minutes. We should be recognized in the same way as a mechanic. »

At his place, redoing the edge of a pair of pants costs around $18.

Jonathan Laplante is the manager of the 14 alteration shops. One thing leads to another. He also noticed a craze for sewing. But the fact remains that it often costs less to buy new than to patch things up. And he too has a recruiting challenge.

The Metropolitan Fashion Cluster is an organization aiming to contribute to the growth of the Quebec fashion industry. Its general director, Mathieu St-Arnaud Lavoie, explains that there is already a movement to recover fur, revalorize leathers, denim, and promote eco-design. According to him, Quebec should take inspiration from France with its patching bonus.

“I believe that there is a collective laziness, there is a lack of understanding of repair. The bonus is a great idea. But anyone will tell you that the first step is retaining design staff. »