(North Adams) Located 400 km from Montreal, in the heart of pastoral Massachusetts, the small town of North Adams is home to the most important contemporary art center in the United States. Art lovers? Curious ? Need nature? A visit is essential.
North Adams and the beautiful Berkshires region were once prosperous, driven by several industries located in the area along the river and railroad. The surroundings are magnificent, mountainous, a little raw, as we love nature when we need to find our way there.
In the mid-1980s, Sprague Electric closed its North Adams plant, resulting in the loss of 4,000 jobs. For a population which then numbered around 25,000 people, the blow was hard to absorb. It could, in fact, have been fatal, since half the residents of North Adams left at the time. But there was an art school there, and we quickly saw the potential of these majestic (and numerous) empty red brick industrial buildings.
PHOTO DENISTANGNEYJR, GETTY IMAGES
North Adams is a fairly rustic little town.
The initial project was launched at the end of the 1980s and saw the light of day at the end of the 1990s, financed largely by the State, which was visionary in supporting this extraordinary approach – particularly at that time – there – and quite risky.
Because North Adams may be located in the middle of the mountains, it is quite a rustic town. We wonder at the sight of this immense contemporary art campus how this can be viable, but we quickly realize that the museum relies on the support of a precious network of patrons. Which makes MASS MoCa celebrate its 25th this yeare birthday.
Art, but also architecture
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE MASS MOCA FACEBOOK PAGE
The museum is located in a former factory.
The great thing about planning a visit to MASS MoCa (for Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art) is that there is something for everyone, whether you like art a lot or a little less. It is difficult to remain impassive in the face of the brilliant recovery of this built heritage, so often left abandoned where industries have left. The rehabilitation is magnificent. And then, with an area of 250,000 square feet, it is difficult to find anything interesting, between the temporary and permanent exhibitions, including areas intended for children.
A first piece of advice: plan to spend the day there. You won’t even need to go out for your meal break, since there are a few snack options on site, including a Mexican restaurant where you can sip mezcal, which is not recommended before to experience the virtual experience proposed by artist Laurie Anderson – on display until the end of the year.
At MASS MoCa you will come across works by established artists like Anselm Kiefer or Louise Bourgeois, but also others discovered there.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY MASS MOCA
The papers are all glued into large cylindrical spaces, by color. We thus enter into the intimacy of Joseph Grigely. In fact, it even feels like you’re in his head. Extremely effective.
We particularly liked the kelli rae adams installation that we came across by chance. With Forever in Your Debt, the American ceramicist made small bowls filled with change that will ultimately represent the entire average student debt in the United States – $37,000. The artist is regularly on site to explain his approach, in which visitors can participate.
PHOTO SHAVI FERNANDO, PROVIDED BY MASS MOCA
Eventually, all of Kelli Rae Adams’ bowls will be filled and visitors who have made a contribution (minimum of $40) will receive their bowl once the installation is dismantled.
At the entrance to the museum, some of the installations by Joseph Grigely, a native of the region, are striking. The deaf artist collected scraps of paper, envelopes, plane tickets and more on which people scribbled words to communicate with him, over a period of 30 years.
You can go to MASS MoCa any time, because the offer is exhaustive and varied, at all times. Before going, we recommend taking a look at the current exhibitions, but also at the entire program. Every Thursday in summer, one of the interior courtyards comes alive around the beer garden ; and the Bluegrass Festival in September looks really awesome.
If you extend the visit, which is a great idea, the small town center, just across the street, has a few places for a nice dinner. And for a two or three day trip to North Adams, include other museums, galleries, or artist studio tours, many of which are inside MASS MoCA.
Visit the MASS MoCA website (in English)
Go
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PHOTO PROVIDED BY TOURISTS
The small main building, with its large fireplace and armchairs, is perfect for coffee or late afternoon cocktails.
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PHOTO PROVIDED BY TOURISTS
The Tourists is a small wooden complex with 46 rooms, whose style takes us somewhere between the classic motel and lodge, although the place has only been open since 2018.
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PHOTO PROVIDED BY TOURISTS
The hotel is also in a great location if you want to hike the Appalachian Trail or Mohawk Trail, both nearby.
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Among the accommodation options, the Tourists certainly stands out, despite the fact that the hotel is located a little outside the center of the city. Very relaxed atmosphere; lots of wood, often plywood or graying cedar.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY TOURISTS
Everything calls for relaxation: the swimming pool area, the walking trails along the banks of the Hoosic River – you can also book a nature bath or a meditative walk with specialists in the field. Other creative or outdoor activities are offered by Tourists.
The hotel is located between the road and the railway, so it is sometimes a little noisy, but we still recommend it, and highly, because it feels very good there. A little grainy. The evening of our visit, Nashville rocker Amelia White offered an acoustic performance, alone, in the reception pavilion, where drinks, snacks and delicious lunches are also served. It’s in the philosophy of the place: to offer accommodation to artists in exchange for a performance for customers and locals.
Visit the Tourists website (in English)