Ben Thouard is an underwater photographer. 14 years ago, he decided to change his life and settle in French Polynesia. In this exceptional place, he falls in love with a people but also with a famous wave: Teahupoo. He photographs it from all angles. His magnificent work can be found in the book Turbulence published by Mons.
At the microphone of Bixente Lizarazu, Ben Thouard recounts his crush on French Polynesia and on the Teahupoo wave, a paradise for surf lovers.
Teahupoo, a legendary wave that will host the 2024 Olympics
When Ben Thouard set foot in French Polynesia, he had a real Thunderbolt. “It was love at first sight for the waves, for surfing and for the Polynesians’ values of sharing”. By discovering the surf spot of Teahupoo, he knew that part of his life had to take place here. “It was obvious”, he said.
He explains that Teahupoo is a unique wave in the world because she offers a perfect hit which allows surfing to the extreme. At the origin of this very particular wave, the swell coming from the South Pacific which collides with the coral reef. The water that’s on the reef gets sucked in and forms a hole in front of the wave. The surfer must enter it to enter the tube. “At the time of the take off, the surfer is like levitating, in free fall for a fraction of a second before taking his trajectory”, says the photographer. Then the surfer’s talent lies in the choice of the right position to be deep enough in the tube without getting trapped in it.
– Ben Thouard
Because the danger is never very far in Teahupoo. Surf this wave can be fatal, because it takes place above the coral reef located one or two meters below. Ben Thouard claims that even the best surfers are vigilant, because it is possible to scalp your skin by corals. “When we fall in the wrong place and the wave hits us on the reef, we leave a few pieces of skin there. This is what makes the intensity of this wave ”, he says.
When I put my head under the water, I was speechless in front of this exceptional underwater spectacle with the clarity of the water – Ben Thouard
As a photographer, Ben Thouard explains that he also takes risks. To photograph underwater, he works by swimming with a pair of fins and a waterproof case to be as free as possible. He locks himself in the wave in an uncomfortable position which allows him to witness everything that happens. “I play with the limits, I find myself under the explosion of the wave, a few centimeters from the reef”. It is a challenge both physical and technical, because there is little light and everything is unpredictable.