The “smash burger” is not a new idea, but interest in this minimalist and irresistible variation of the hamburger is growing. As the outdoor grilling season begins, The Press visited Simon de l’Est, master of the “smash” Montrealer so that he reveals all his secrets (or almost).
Posted May 25
Since its opening in 2021, in the Tétraultville district, Chez Simon urban canteen has quickly established itself as one of the best places on the island — and beyond — to sink your teeth into a burger. The proof: during the last Burger Week, his creation of the moment was voted best in Montreal, and second in Canada.
Its founder, Simon Jodoin-Bouchard, known as Simon de l’Est, is far from being a neophyte when it comes to barbecues. He has won numerous prizes at American competitions, founded SJB BBQ, where he offers his creations of “rubs” and sauces, and co-authored the book BBQ for Dummies.
For some time now, it’s the burger that has fascinated him, and that brings him lots of customers. Simon also created the Burger Québec Facebook page, which brings together more than 10,000 members. It is also the subject of his new book, published by Éditions de l’Homme, simply titled burger.
PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
Simon de l’Est, owner of Chez Simon urban canteen
The book really means a lot to me. I’m curious in the kitchen, I like to cook curries, go eat in little Latin American cuisine. So I explore many types of flavors, from tex-mex to tandoori. It’s 100% my image.
Eastern Simon, author of burger
In this book, he tells how his obsession for the burger was born, the history of this dish inseparable from American culture, and presents many recipes – burgers, of course, with all the sauces, but also sandwiches, sauces and condiments. Among them, that of his famous smash burger, one of the most popular dishes in his canteen.
The antithesis of the dizzying burger
But what exactly is a burger smash, and why do people love it?
First, forget the decadent burger with thick meatballs and multiple layers of toppings. The smash burger is in a way the antithesis: simple and minimalist, without fla-fla.
“The smash burger really took me back to the classic burger, back to basics, with good old American cheese, not a million toppings, all the flavors you need. I often eat burgers, but I always come back to this recipe, ”explains the one who predicts the return of classic canteens in the Quebec culinary landscape.
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PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
First step: smash the meatball into a thin patty with a burger press.
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PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
Once the galette is well caramelized, turn it over, then place a slice of orange cheese on top.
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PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
Then just assemble the burger with the rest of the ingredients; the greediest can do it twice.
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To make a burger smash according to the rules of the art, two tools are essential: a griddle and a burger (or bacon) press.
PHOTO FROM BLACKSTONE WEBSITE
Simon de l’Est strongly recommends the purchase of a propane plancha to make smash burgers in the rules of the art.
“I bought myself a small 17-inch propane plancha that I put on my balcony. This is kind of where the love of smash burgers started for me. In addition, you can really use it to make a lot of other things: breakfasts, stir-fries…”, enumerates Simon.
Why the plancha? Because it is possible to manually adjust the ideal temperature in order to obtain the famous caramelization and crispiness that any self-respecting smash burger ball must have. “A cast iron skillet can work, but the caramelization will never be the same as with a plancha”, remarks the cook.
Because this is where the art of the smash burger lies : obtain a Maillard reaction by placing a ball of cold minced beef on the very hot plate, which is quickly crushed with a burger press into a thin patty, simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Cooking is very fast: two or three minutes maximum. Let the meat caramelize well, then turn it over once it is almost cooked. This is how you make sure you have the desired texture: crispy on the outside, but still juicy on the inside.
Then, all you need is a few well-chosen elements to obtain a burger that will take you back to childhood: a slice of American cheddar cheese, which is left to melt on the turned patty, caramelized onions, sweet pickles and a potato bun, for the soft side. In his classic burger smash served at his restaurant, Simon also adds a slice of capicollo (replacing the bacon) and his famous homemade barbecue sauce.
burger
Eastern Simon
Editions de l’Homme
175 pages
Eastern Simon’s Smash Burger
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 2 to 3 minutes
Yield: 4 burgers
Ingredients
1 yellow onion
2 tbsp. butter
454 g (1 lb) medium-lean ground beef (ask your butcher for a meat-to-fat ratio of 80%-20%)
2 tbsp. canola oil
4 slices of American cheddar
4 potato buns (see note)
4 slices of capicollo
4 slices of sweet pickles
4 to 6 tbsp. burger sauce (SJB BBQ sauce or your favorite brand)
Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
1. Slice the onion very thin.
2. In a hot skillet or on the griddle, melt the butter and caramelize the onion slices. To book.
3. Preheat the cooking surface (plancha or skillet) to about 260 ohC (500 ohF).
4. Divide the meat into 4 meatballs of equal size, about the size of a golf ball.
5. Once the surface is hot, oil with canola oil and place the 4 meatballs on it. “Smash” each of them with a press for about 20 seconds. Add salt and pepper to taste.
6. As soon as the caramelization is satisfactory, turn the patties and place the slices of cheese on top. Quickly toast the capicollo slices, if desired.
7. Grill the buns and assemble the burgers this way: bottom bun, meat patty, capicollo, caramelized onions, sweet pickles, top bun brushed with sauce.
Note: it can be difficult to find potato bread in supermarkets. Simon de l’Est uses that of the American brand Martin’s, which can be found at Mayrand. The POM brand also markets a potato hamburger bun during the summer season.